Add color to treated wood
Q I’m
building a nice set of lawn furniture out of treated wood, and I need your
help. We want a colored finish and aren’t sure what type of product we should
use.
W. Frank, via
e-mail
Click Image to enlarge.
A Choose a
finish that you can renew fairly easily, because no finish is likely to last
more than three to five years. We recommend either a semi-transparent or a
solid exterior stain. The solids will protect the wood longer than the
semi-transparent stains.
Use either an oil-based or water-based
formula. Latex (water-based) is easier to clean up and will usually last
longer. Oil-based stains typically penetrate deeper into the wood and require
less prep work when recoating.
Whichever you choose, expect to renew it every two to three
years. And make sure the stain contains both a water repellent and a UV
(ultraviolet) stabilizer. These additives will help your furniture withstand
intense sunlight as well as weather fluctuations (from rain to sun, low to high
temperatures and moist to dry air).
Keep in mind that the preservatives in
pressure-treated wood only guard against insects, rot and decay. They don’t
protect the wood from the effects of water and sunlight. If left unprotected,
the wood will cup, crack, warp and turn gray.
While a stain/sealer can’t stop gradual deterioration, it will
substantially reduce it.
You’ll find exterior stains in several
brands and dozens of colors (for $15 to $25 per gallon) at home centers,
full-service hardware stores and paint retailers. Before you apply the stain,
make sure the treated wood surface is clean and dry (the surface will no longer
look wet) and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Reader Mystery Photo
Q I have a crack running horizontally along my
basement concrete block wall. There’s a stair-step crack on each end of this
main 1/4-in. crack, and the wall has bowed in about 1 in. Is this wall stable?
Can I just fill the crack and finish the basement?
J. Greytock, via
e-mail
A NO. Don’t handle this cracked
wall by simply filling the crack and finishing off the basement. If you only
had the stair-step cracks, you could go ahead with your basement finish work,
because that type of crack is a normal sign of settling. Stair-step cracks may
cause cracks in other walls above or a door to rub, but they don’t compromise
the strength of the foundation.
Click Image to enlarge.
However, the horizontal crack that has bowed
the wall inward is the sign of a severely weakened wall that can fail. Even if
it has been stable for awhile, it can no longer reliably support the load it’s
supposed to carry.
Our advice is to ask a local general
contractor or building official to direct you to a structural engineer who can
examine the wall and surroundings and suggest the correct method to reinforce
the wall. Then you can proceed with your project.
To view more details about basement wall
repair and types of bracing, check out
www.structuraldynamics.com.
Do you have a mystery challenge around your house or
property?
Send a photo with a detailed description to “Ask The Family Handyman,” 2915
Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121. Include your name and phone
number.
Clean a window air conditioner
Q We bought a new window air conditioner several
years ago, and aside from installing and removing it every year, we haven’t
touched it. What should we be doing to keep it running efficiently and extend
its life?
S. Larsen, via
e-mail
Click Image to enlarge.
A When you remove the unit this
fall, take a half-hour or so to clean the filter, wipe out the unit and flush
dirt from the condenser coil. If you keep the coils clean, that’s 90 percent of
keeping an air conditioner in shape to last long and run efficiently. In fact,
if you have an air conditioner that just won’t blow cold air, clean the coils
before you call a pro to add coolant. Dirty coils are usually the
culprit.
First, remove the filter and clean it with
soap and water according to your owner’s guide. Then vacuum the fins of the
evaporator coil (which is directly behind the filter) to remove dust and
dirt.
Now move to the rear of the air conditioner
to clean the condenser coil, which is usually the dirtier of the two. Cover the
electric motor with a plastic bag to keep it and the wiring dry. Then take a
hose-end nozzle and spray water from the outside inward (see photo).Wipe
off the entire unit until it’s dry, then let it air dry for a couple of days
before storing it. If you have an air compressor, it’s a good idea to blow air
through the fins to speed drying and reduce the risk of rust setting in during
storage.
Corrections
In our May ’04 issue, p. 15, we showed how
to find a pond liner leak from underneath the liner. We should have included
several warnings about safety. First, maintain good airflow while doing this to
avoid any danger of suffocation. Second, only do this during a cool part of the
day to avoid overheating. Finally, when you’re finished, fold up the liner and
put it away so children won’t crawl under it.
The correct telephone number for Simtec Co.,
the manufacturer of EZ Moves furniture slides, which we featured in our May ’04
issue, is (800) 847-4683. We apologize for any inconvenience the wrong number
may have caused.
Why do septic systems fail?
Q I want to know what causes septic systems to
fail. Do you have to do anything to encourage bacteria? Every guy at the coffee
shop has an opinion on this subject. I want to hear from the
experts.
Mike
Mahaffa, Goshen, IN
Click Image to enlarge.
A The main cause of failure is
neglecting to pump out the tank every one to three years. Excessive scum and
sludge leak from a full tank of solid waste into the drain field and plug the
sand, gravel and soil. This prevents the normal filtering of wastewater that
enters the drain field—and the whole system backs up.
Two other main causes of failure are
excessive water use over short time periods (many laundry loads or showers in
one day) and adding harmful chemicals. As a high volume of wastewater enters
the septic tank, an equal volume must exit into the drain field. This high
volume churns the tank and the suspended sludge, scum and non-biodegradable
products (see “Clog-causing materials” below) travel with the waste-water to
clog the drain field.
Other septic
stoppers
-
Improper design or
installation
-
Clogged or broken pump (mound system
only)
-
Frozen
pipes
-
Saturated drain field
soils
Regarding your bacteria question, no, you do
not need starters, feeders or other additives to keep your septic system’s
millions of naturally occurring bacteria in good health. Those hungry bacteria
will continue to break down solids if you limit disposal of harmful products
and harsh chemicals into your septic system (see
list).
For more advice, the University of Minnesota
offers good troubleshooting articles at www.extension.umn.edu. Click on
“Environment,” then “Waste Management.”
Clog-causing
materials
-
Tissues (only flush toilet
paper)
-
Feminine hygiene
products
-
Cigarette
butts
-
Food particles (from
disposer)
-
Grease and
oils
-
Lint (from clothes
washer)
-
Anything that won’t break
down
Bacteria-harming
chemicals
-
Paints and
solvents
-
Pesticides and
fertilizers
-
Bleach, disinfectants and antibacterial
soaps
-
Drain cleaners and
acids
-
Prescription antibiotics and other
medications
Art
Direction • BOB UNGAR
Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE
Consultants • KEN OLSON, SEPTIC SYSTEM EDUCATOR;
DAVE MacDONALD, STRUCTURAL
