Stackable Sawhorses
Click Image to enlarge.
We designed these sawhorses for
strength, yet they stack compactly. We built them from construction-grade 1x4s (for the legs) and 1x6s (for the top), glue and
a handful of screws. They cost only about $6 each.
We made our legs 32 in. long, which put
the horse height at about 30 in., the height of a standard table. Adjust the leg length to your own comfort level. The top 1x6
is 32 in. long, but again, adjust its length to fit your needs.
The trickiest part is cutting the sharp
(15-degree) angle on the top of each leg. The best method is to clamp at least four 1x4s together and cut them on edge
(Photo 1). Mark the cutting line on all
sides because you have to flip the 1x4s over to complete the cut. A standard Speed square has angle marks that’ll help you
measure the 15 degrees. Then cut the legs to length at a 75-degree angle (15-degree saw setting) so they rest flat on the
floor.
If you don’t have a table saw, screw
the cleat stock to your workbench, using spacers (Photo 2). That’ll keep the piece stable while you cut the angles with a circular saw. Note that the
narrow side of the cleat is 2-1/8 in. wide. Make sure the legs are perpendicular to the 1x6 when you assemble them (Photo 3).
1. Clamp four 1x4s
together, mark the 15-degree angle along their edges and cut them all at once. Flip the bundle over and finish the cut from
the opposite side.
2. Temporarily screw a
1x4 to your workbench and mark the cleat cuts. Set your saw to 15 degrees and cut the angles. Unscrew the board and cut off
5-in. long cleats.
3. Center and screw the
cleats to the 1x6. Predrill, then spread glue and screw the legs to the 1x6 and cleats. Keep the edges
flush.
Multi-Use Shop Cart
Click Image to enlarge.
This shop cart is like a whole workshop
on wheels. It’ll roll right where you need it and serve as a mini workbench, an extension table for the table saw, a tool
stand and more. It’s solidly built from less than one sheet of 3/4-in. plywood ($25) and four 3-in. swivel casters ($7 each).
All of the materials are available at home centers. The first one will take about three hours to cut out and build, and the
second one about two hours. You probably won’t be satisfied with one!
Cutting List |
| KEY |
QTY. |
SIZE & DESCRIPTION |
| A |
4 |
3/4" x 3-3/4" x 29" (side legs) |
| B |
4 |
3/4" x 3" x 29" (end legs) |
| C |
2 |
3/4" x 6" x 30-1/2" (base frame
sides) |
| D |
2 |
3/4" x 6" x 17" (base frame ends) |
| E |
1 |
3/4" x 18-1/2" x 30-1/2"
(shelf) |
| F |
2 |
3/4" x 3-3/4" x 30-1/2" (top frame sides) |
| G |
2 |
3/4" x 3-3/4" x 17" (top frame
ends) |
| H |
1 |
3/4" x 20" x 32" (top) |
| J |
2 |
3/4" x 3-3/4" x 20" (wheel support
boards) |
| K |
4 |
3" casters |
FIG. A: CART DETAILS
Click Image to enlarge.
To build it, follow these seven steps:
-
Cut out the parts shown in the
Cutting List. Use a circular saw and guide to keep the cuts straight. Cut off one end of the plywood at 30-1/2 in. long. Then
cut parts A, B, C and F from this piece.
-
Glue and nail the top frame together (F
and G).
-
Assemble the base frame (C and D) and
attach the bottom shelf (E) with glue and nails. Sand the shelf edge with a belt sander, if necessary, to make it flush with
the frame.
-
Glue and nail the leg parts together
(A and B) as shown in
Photo 1.
-
Round over all the sharp plywood
edges with a random orbital sander or a sanding block with 100-grit paper. Softened edges are easier on your hands and less
likely to give you slivers. Pay special attention to the long edges on the legs, the top edge of the bottom shelf and the
lower edges of the top frame.
-
Attach the assembled legs to the
bottom and top frames (Photo
2). Then glue and nail on the top (H). Note that the top overlaps the top frame and rests flush with the outer
edges of the legs.
-
Flip the cart over and add the wheel
support boards (J). Screw on the casters and you’re ready to roll (Photo 3).
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Tubular Storage
Click Image to enlarge.
Here’s a great storage solution for
long skinny things like wood moldings, leftover pipe or even a long level. Buy a 12-in. diameter cardboard concrete form from
a home center. They cost about $7.50 for a 4-ft. length. Slide in plywood dividers and drive a few 1-1/4 in. screws through
the cardboard to fix them in place. Then tuck the tube up between joists and anchor it there with steel hanger strap ($1 at
home centers). For longer stuff, you can buy tubes up to 8 ft. long from dealers who specialize in concrete products
(“Concrete Products” in your Yellow Pages). You could also choose smaller diameter tubes (10 in. or 8 in. depending on the
local stock) for a tighter fit.
Universal Clamp Rack
Click Image to enlarge.
This clamp rack is surprisingly simple,
considering how many different types of clamps it holds. It’s made from 32-in. lengths of 1/2-in. metal conduit suspended
between a couple of 3-ft. long 2x6 brackets. You can buy everything at a home center for about $8.
We shaped the ends of the 2x6s for easy
mounting to the wall, but you don’t have to make yours this fancy. Cut the conduit to 32-in. lengths and drill 5/8-in. holes
3/4 in. deep in the wood sides. These dimensions ensure that the brackets can be mounted directly to studs that are 16 in. on
center. We spaced the pipes 12 in. apart and 3 in. out from the wall. However, position the conduit according to the types of
clamps (and other stuff) you want to hang there.
Knock-Down Utility
Table
Click Image to enlarge.
When you’re cramped for workbench
space, you can’t beat this super-stable plywood table. You can assemble it in about two minutes, knock it apart just as fast
and store it flat against a wall in a stack less than 6 in. thick. It’s easy to make from 3/4-in. plywood and four short 2x4
blocks (Figure
A).
Cut the slots for the interlocking legs
with a circular saw or jigsaw. Cut them slightly wider than 3/4 in. You don’t want them to interlock too tightly or you won’t
be able to get them apart. Notch the bottom edges, leaving 6-in. long feet to reduce rocking on uneven
floors.
Screw the 2x4 blocks to the top corners
of each base piece. Then predrill the blocks and drive screws into the top to make it extra secure. For simple operations, you
may not even want to screw the top down.
FIG. A: TABLE DETAILS
Cutting List |
| Base: 3/4" x 36"
x 48" (2 pieces) |
| Top: 3/4" x 48" x 48" |
| Blocks: 2x4 x 4" (4 pieces) |
Photo 1
Photo 2
Stud Shelving
Click Image to enlarge.
FIG. A: SHELF DETAILS
Open studs along a wall offer a great
opportunity to install this strong, highly versatile shelving system. The heart of the system is a simple sandwich bracket
that you can quickly make from scraps of 2x4 and 3/4-in. plywood (Figure A). Glue and nail them together, then bolt them to the studs with 3/8-in.
bolts, either 3-1/2 or 4 in. long.
Before mounting the brackets, snap a
level line across the studs to keep them exactly in line. A 3/4-in. x 12-in. wide shelf can span about 30 in. without undue
bending under normal loads, so plan to install a bracket on every other stud (16 in. on center). Use a torpedo level to mount
the bracket perfectly level, then drill the 3/8-in. bolt holes (photo right). Mount the bolts, drop on the shelf board and you’re in
business.
Our thanks to
American
Woodworker, our sister magazine, for supplying these tips.
Table Saw Worktable
Click Image to enlarge.
Turn your table saw into extra
workbench space with a piece of 3/4-in. plywood. Size the plywood to fit the table saw table, and nail and glue on just enough
1x2 edge strips for a snug, no-slide fit. Use this table for lightweight and low-impact jobs. For heavy pounding, use a proper
workbench or the floor.
CAUTION:
Unplug the saw and crank the saw blade below the table surface before
using this top.
