How to dry up a wet basement
Click Image to enlarge.
Q In the spring and after heavy rains, water leaks
into my basement along the base of the foundation walls. How can I stop
this?
Troy Ashton, via
E-mail
A First, make sure that rainwater
runs away from the house foundation. To pinpoint problem areas, go outside
while it’s raining and observe how the water flows off the roof and onto the
ground around the house. Pay particular attention to areas below roof valleys
where lots of water runs off.
Add soil to slope the ground away from the foundation.
The grade should slope a minimum of 1 in. per foot for the first 4 to 6 ft. If
necessary, direct roof water away with gutters and
downspouts.
If these measures fail, you may have to install an
interior drain tile and sump basin. (see photo). The corrugated floor
edging catches water running down the inside of the foundation wall and seeping
under it and then directs it to the drain tile. The drain tile carries the
water to the sump basin, where an electric pump automatically discharges
it.
The materials are relatively inexpensive, but the labor
is
huge. You’ll need to jackhammer out
a strip of concrete around the perimeter, haul out concrete rubble and dirt,
carry in gravel, and then patch the concrete floor. This is dusty, sweaty
labor. Pros charge several thousand dollars for this
job.
To install this system, follow these
steps:
-
Break out and remove an 18-in. strip of concrete around
the walls to expose the footing and underlying dirt. Rent an electric
jackhammer ($65 per day) for this task.
-
Dig a 12-in. wide by 8-in. deep trench alongside the
footing.
-
Find a location for the sump basin (an unfinished room is
best). You’ll need an electrical outlet for the sump pump and a way to run the
discharge pipe outside. Break out additional floor, dig a hole and set the
basin in place so the top is flush with the concrete
floor.
-
Lay about 2 in. of gravel in the bottom of the trench
(use crushed stone or river rock). Run the perforated drain tile in the trench
and push its end through the knockout of the sump basin. Try to make a complete
loop of the basement with the drain tile and run both ends into the basin. Fill
the trench and around the basin with more gravel, leaving room for 3 to 4 in.
of concrete.
-
Hang 6-mil polyethylene sheeting from the top of the
foundation wall. Leave the bottom edge hanging just above the
footing.
-
Lay the floor edging on the footing. Make sure the
polyethylene runs behind it.
-
Lay a strip of polyethylene on top of the gravel and pour
concrete to patch in the floor.
-
Install the sump pump in the basin and run the discharge
pipe outside. Make sure the pipe runs at least 6 ft. away from the foundation
so you aren’t just dumping the water back against the foundation
wall.
If you have a concrete block
foundation,
you’ll have to drain the
block cores by drilling 1-in. holes through the face of the block. Rent a
rotary hammer with a 1-in. masonry bit; it’s worth the $50-a-day
fee.
Buyer’s Guide
-
Floor edging: MTI, (800) 634-4525. Go to
www.masonrytechnology.com to find a local
supplier.
-
Sealed basin:18 x 22 in. with two drain tile holes, No.
5220 ($27), and lid No. 5225 ($26). Shelter Supply, (800)
762-8399.www.sheltersupply.com
Power from a switch box
One common switch wiring configuration
Click Image to enlarge.
Q I’m adding
a new receptacle in my family room. Can I tie in to nearby switch box
wires?
T. Edmundson, via
E-mail
A Sometimes.
First, check to see if the box contains a circuit you can tie into. Turn off
the power to the switch box, remove the switch plate and unscrew the switch so
you can examine the wires. If there’s a pair of neutral (white) wires that
aren’t connected to the switch, you’re in luck (see photo). You
can then add the new black wire to the black, the white to the white, and the
ground to the ground wires. However, keep in mind that the switch box might
contain other wires or have improper connections. If you’re not sure, look
elsewhere or call a licensed electrician to advise
you.
Second, do a wire count
to make sure the box is big enough for the three new wires (see chart). The
box size (in cubic inches) is often stamped on the inside of the back. If it’s
not, measure the width, height and
depth of the box and
multiply to calculate its volume. If the box isn’t large enough, replace it
with a larger one or look for another place to tie in.
How to calculate box size
Count the wires coming
into the box shown in the photo.
| 1 red
wire
|
1
|
| 2 black
wires
|
2
|
| 2 white
wires
|
2
|
| All
ground wires (count as 1)
|
1
|
| 1
switch (counts as 2)
|
2
|
| Total
|
8
|
Add cable for the new
receptacle:
| |
| 1 new
black wire
|
1
|
| 1 new
white wire
|
1
|
| 1 new
ground wire (combined with other ground
wires)
|
0
|
| Total
|
2
|
8+2=10 Total wire count with new
cable
For 14-gauge wires,
multiply by 2 cu. in. (For 12-gauge, multiply by
2.25.)
Minimum box size needed: 10 x 2 = 20 cu.
in.
Where can I find
resorcinol glue?
Q I built a
decorative fence more than 30 years ago and it still looks great. It
incorporated wood arches that were laminated together with a resorcinol glue.
Now I can’t find the glue anywhere. Any leads?
R. Grant, Mead,
OK
A What you’re
looking for is a two-part resorcinol-formaldehyde resin adhesive. It’s an
excellent adhesive that’s still used for marine applications because it’s
completely waterproof. A couple of sources:
Allred & Associates, 11 Teasel Lane, Skaneateles, NY
13152; (315) 252-2559. wood-carver.com Seven Corners Ace Hardware,216 W.
Seventh St., St. Paul, MN 55102; (651) 224-4859.
An alternative is to use a one-part polyurethane glue
such as Gorilla Glue or Probond.
Stopping a plumbing
leak
Q I have a
small leak at an elbow joint in a copper water line. How do I go about fixing
this?
Mike L., via
E-mail
A Are you
feeling lucky? Try this first fix and find out. This will be a quick and easy
fix or it will try your patience.
Shut off the water at
the main valve in your home and open up nearby faucets to completely drain the
pipe with the leaky elbow. Dry the outside of the elbow and sand (120-grit
paper or cloth) around the leaking joint to remove all surface corrosion. Apply
soldering flux around the whole joint and apply heat with a torch until the old
solder melts. Add new solder until a shiny ring of solder shows all around the
joint. Let the pipe cool for five minutes, then turn the water back on and
cross your fingers that you stopped the leak.
Click Image to enlarge.
If the leak continues . . .
Turn off the water again, open faucets to drain the line
and cutout the entire elbow. Then solder in new
fittings.
A last ditch effort . . .
Sometimes you can’t solder in the new fittings because
there’s a continuous slow trickle of water. If you don’t want to wait for the
water to completely drain, try this trick. Replace the elbow with a tee with a
threaded fitting soldered on one end. This open end allows any moisture to
escape as steam so you can heat the joint enough to melt the solder. When the
pipe has cooled, screw in a threaded plug. Be sure to use Teflon tape or pipe
compound on the threads.
For more information, see “Soldering Copper Pipe: Start
to Finish,” April ’00, p. 83. To order a copy, see p.
5.
The easiest way to stop
rot
Q I fixed a
water leak and then discovered a small amount of wood rot. Is it OK to leave
the rot alone or will it spread?
R. Parsons, via
E-mail
A Once the
moisture in the wood dries, the rot-causing fungus will stop growing and will
eventually die. Eliminating the source of moisture is sufficient to stop the
rot.
A non-slip shower
base
Q I have a
fiberglass shower with a slick floor. How can I roughen the surface to make it
safer?
D. Lyon, Fort Davis,
TX
A Apply
safety tape to the shower floor. You can buy strips of this self-sticking,
non-slip material at most hardware stores. Clean the shower floor and let it
completely dry to ensure that the tape adheres. Run parallel strips spaced
about4 in. apart across the shower
floor.
Sizing an air
compressor
Q I need to
buy an air compressor for my home woodworking shop. Could you give me some
hints on the minimum airflow, power and tank capacity?
Henry Ren, via
E-mail
A While it’s
tempting to go out and buy some big plowhorse of a compressor, the fact is that
most shops can get by with a 1- to 2-hp unit. That’s because most of us only
use them to run trim nail guns and blow dust off projects. Smaller compressors
are cheaper and don’t require 240-volt circuits.
Click Image to enlarge.
But if you plan to use paint sprayers or rotary tools
like an orbital sander, then size the compressor to the tool that requires the
highest volume of air. You’ll find the specifications printed somewhere on the
tool or in the accompanying literature (yes, the booklet you tucked away
somewhere when you first unpacked the tool). Determine the tool’s working
pressure (pounds per square inch, or psi) and air usage requirements (square
cubic feet per minute, or scfm). Choose a compressor that’ll provide at least
1.2 times these specifications.
Finally, consider investing in an oil-lubricated one.
It’ll last longer and be much quieter than the oilless
compressors.
Art Direction • GREGG
WEIGAND
Photography • BILL
ZUEHLKE
Consultants • AL HILDENBRAND and
JOHN WILLIAMSON, MASTER ELECTRICIANS
