Sturdy stair posts

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Q How do I anchor rail posts at the bottom of my deck stairs? I don’t want to set them in concrete, so what’s the best alternative?

M. Flynn, via e-mail

A The bottom post is the toughest post to make solid. My favorite technique is to bolt it to the stair stringers (the frame). But it’ll only be solid if the stringers are solid. That’s the challenging part.

First, build a level landing pad for the stair stringers. You don’t need to pour a footing. Just dig out and compact a minimum 4-in. thick gravel base, then pour a concrete slab or lay paving stones.

Lay out and cut the stringers. (See “Building Deck Stairs,” March ’02, pp. 64–71. To order a copy, see p. 7.) Make the bottom tread cut 1-1/2 in. shorter than the others. You’ll fill out this space with a 2-by “subriser” (see photo).

Fasten the top of the stringers to the deck. Rip a piece of treated 2-by lumber to match the height of the bottom riser, then screw this “subriser” to the bottom ends of all three stringers. The finished riser (cedar in our case) will cover it.

Cut each post to length, allowing them to run alongside the stringer to the ground. Then cut a 1-1/2 in. deep notch into the post so it sits over the stringer, flush with the outside face.

Tack the post into the framing, making sure it’s tight to the stringer and subriser. Then cut and nail treated 2-by blocks between the stringers and tight to the backside of the posts. Next drill two 1/2-in. holes through the stringer and the post. Hold them 1-1/2 in. from the top and bottom. Drill another 1/2-in. hole through the subriser, the post and the block behind it. You’ll need either an extra-long drill bit or an extension bit. Install 1/2-in. galvanized carriage bolts with washers and nuts. Tighten them firmly.

Finally, install the risers and treads as shown in the photo. The post won’t be as rock-solid as one set in concrete. You’ll still feel some give when you lean on it. But it’s strong—it won’t move unless the stairs move.

Note: Confirm the handrail detail on this post design with your local building inspector to make sure it’s acceptable in your region.

Second doorbell chime

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Typical single chime wiring at transformer

Q Can I add a remote ringer to the doorbell in my basement shop?

J. Cleem, via e-mail

A Yes, it’s a simple job. The most difficult part is tracking down the cables. Although it’s easy to connect a new “doorbell cable” (common is 18- or 20-gauge CL2 type or the equivalent) at the existing doorbell chime (top photo), it may be difficult to run concealed wires to your basement shop. It may be easier to make the connection at the low-voltage transformer that powers the doorbell, especially if it’s near the shop. Often the transformer is mounted on the electrical service panel (bottom photo).

If you’re connecting it at the chime, note the three screw terminals labeled “front,” “back” and “transformer.” Connect a wire to each and then simply make sure the three wires connect to the same terminals on the new chime. There’s no uniform color-coding for doorbell wires.

Add a second chime cable at the transformer, exactly like the cable to the existing chime. Your existing transformer may not be powerful enough to handle both chimes. So if you get a weak sound, replace the transformer with a 15-20VA (volt amp) unit.

Mounting a towel bar on ceramic tile

Q I want to install a ceramic towel bar in my tiled shower. How do I cut out the existing tile to make a space for it?

B. Meehan, via e-mail

A You don’t have to. In the past, ceramic fixtures such as towel bar holders and soap dishes were cemented right to the wall and the tile was fitted around them. Now most are designed to be glued to the face of the tile with 100 percent silicone caulk. The only tricky part is holding them in place until the silicone sets up.

First thoroughly clean the tile with denatured alcohol. Lay a bead of caulk on the back of the fixture, push it into place and secure it with masking tape. Let the caulk stiffen for an hour or so and then add caulk around the perimeter. Use a wet finger or rag to smooth the caulk joint. Let it sit overnight before you pull the tape. Remember to put the rod in before setting the second fixture.

Failing fluorescent

Q On muggy days, the fluorescent light above the kitchen sink won’t come on. All I get is a faint glow at both ends of the tube. Do I need to replace the starter or the ballast?

W. Hartman, Seneca, SC

A The symptoms indicate that you probably have an old magnetic ballast that’s marginal by either design or condition. A new magnetic ballast will cost about $20. For directions on replacing it, see Oct. ’02, p. 28. To order a copy, see p. 7. Consider replacing the fixture with one that has an electronic ballast ($30). It’ll be more energy efficient and quieter, too.

Corrections

In the “Shade for Your Deck” story (March ’03), the length of the cross beam D1 on p. 48 should be 111 in., not 109 in. We regret any inconvenience that we caused.

In our April ’03 issue, we forgot to remind you to call your local utility before digging a hole to plant a tree. Any time you dig in your yard, you could inadvertently hit a buried gas, electrical, water, phone or sewer line. The local utility will send someone out to mark buried utility locations.

Unsure whether to call? Don’t guess. Let the utility decide whether to come out or not.

New water heater thermocouple

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Q The pilot light on my gas water heater won’t stay lit. Any ideas?

R. Thomas, via e-mail

A The No. 1 cause of this problem is a worn-out thermocouple. It’s easy to replace and a new one costs $5 to $10. Rather than trying to unfasten the thermocouple inside the water heater’s burning chamber, it’s easier to remove the whole burner and thermocouple assembly. Then detach the thermocouple from the burner and take it with you to the home center or hardware store to ensure you buy the right replacement.

First shut off the gas valve on the water heater and the gas valve on the gas line near the heater. Then unfasten the three nuts that hold the thermocouple and the two gas tubes to the valve. The burner typically sits loosely—or under clips—in the burning chamber and just slides out. This is a good time to vacuum out the burner compartment, check for water leaks and remove debris in the burner ports.

Attach the thermocouple and reinstall the burner assembly. Light the pilot following the instructions on the water heater. Check for gas leaks by applying soapy water to joints and looking for bubbles while the main burner is firing.

The Family Handyman is looking for a new associate editor. If you have strong communication skills and professional contracting experience, please send a résumé to TFH Editor, 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121.

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Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND

Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE

Consultant • CHARLIE AVOLES and LES ZELL, MASTER PLUMBERS