Durable fix for a sinking driveway
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Q My asphalt driveway has sunk a couple of inches
in front of my garage door. Now there’s a big gap that water runs into. What
should I use to fill the gap?
D.
Torson, via e-mail
A Filling the gap will help keep out water and
reduce potential damage to your garage foundation. But it’s only a band-aid,
not a long-term fix. The best solution is to remove the settled asphalt,
compact the underlying soil and patch the driveway. Although the soil
correction is a do-it-yourself project, asphalt work is not. The bagged asphalt
at the home center isn’t intended for this type of patch; it won’t hold up. On
the other hand, an asphalt contractor will charge up to $600 to make the
repair.
Another approach is to
make an apron from paving brick. It’s attractive, you can do it yourself, and
you can easily reset the pavers if the soil settles again. Follow these
steps:
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Snap a
chalk line parallel to the garage door. Make sure it’s out far
enough to include all the settled asphalt. Lay out a row of your paving bricks,
starting against the garage floor slab to position the chalk line at a full
brick.
-
Rent a
gas cutoff saw with an asphalt-cutting blade ($60 per day) and cut
through the asphalt (it’s usually 2 to 3 in. thick) along the chalk line. Be
sure to wear hearing and eye protection.
-
Remove
the asphalt and dig a 12-in. deep trench. Angle the wall of the
trench slightly under the remaining asphalt. Rent a plate compactor ($50 per
day) and run it along the trench at least four times to compact the soil. Line
the sides and bottom of the trench with landscape fabric. It’s available from
landscape suppliers.
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Spread
a 2-in. layer of Class V or other compactible gravel, dampen it and
run the compactor over it four times. Continue to spread and compact the gravel
in 2-in. layers until it’s 3 in. below the existing driveway. (For detailed
instructions, see “Build a Patio with Brick and Stone,” April ’00, p. 34. To
order a copy, see p. 7.)
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Install
paver edging along grass edges and spread a 1-in. layer of coarse
sand. Don’t compact it.
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Set
your pavers, compact them with the plate compactor and fill the
joints with sand. Be sure to use joint stabilizing sealer to keep the sand from
washing out.
Renew a scratched countertop
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Q I’ve got a cultured marble countertop in my
bathroom that’s quite scratched up and shabby looking. Can I do anything to
make it look like new?
R.
Johnson, via e-mail
A How about close to new? I was disappointed by
how quickly mine lost its shine, so one day I took out my auto polisher and
went at it. What a difference.
Cultured tops are made of polyester resin with a clear
topcoat (called the gel coat). This is the same material that’s used with
fiberglass and it buffs out beautifully. Removing the faucet makes it easier to
buff the top.
First wet-sand with 1,000-grit paper (available at auto
parts stores) to remove small, shallow scratches and surface stains. Don’t try
to remove deep scratches or deep stains. You’ll risk sanding right through the
gel coat. Rinse and dry the top.
Next, buff with Meguiar’s Medium-Cut Cleaner (also
available at auto parts stores). The buffing can be done by hand, but a small
power buffer is much easier. Finally, protect the restored finish with a coat
of Hope’s Cultured Marble Polish (available at Home Depot and bath specialty
stores). Follow the label directions.
Easy-flush water heater valve
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Q I have hard water and have been told that I
should periodically drain my water heater to flush out the minerals. Is this
true?
P.
Hunter, via e-mail
A It’s a good idea. Manufacturers recommend it to
prevent mineral buildup that reduces heater performance and efficiency. In
fact, research shows that for every 1/2 in. of sediment on the bottom of a
gas-fired water heater, 70 percent more fuel is required to heat the
water.
How often it should be drained depends on the mineral
load in your water, the amount of hot water used and whether a water softener
is part of your system. To judge this, drain the water heater, then wait six
months and do it again. If the water seems clear after six months, then extend
the time between draining. If it’s heavy with sediment, drain your water heater
more often.
To drain, first turn off the power. If your water heater
is gas powered, twist the dial on the thermostat from the “on” position to
“off.” If it’s electric, flip the circuit breaker off at the service panel that
controls the water heater or flip off the main breaker. Next, shut off the cold
water supply by twisting the water valve (located atop the heater) clockwise
until it stops. Then attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the
heater and run the other end of the hose into a light-colored bucket in order
to view the sediment.
Open the drain valve and turn the cold water supply back
on to flush out the sediment.
Be careful; the water is
hot! The first water exiting the
heater carries the most sediment. When water runs clear, shut off the drain
valve, detach the hose and turn the power back on.
If you have sediment, replace the plastic drain valve
with a ball-style valve. It’s much less likely to clog with sediment and is
easier to close than the factory-equipped valves. This type of valve also
allows you to run a stiff wire into the tank bottom to loosen hardened
sediment.
To replace, it’s simply a matter of draining the tank
(use steps listed above), unscrewing the factory-installed plastic valve and
threading in the new ball valve. And always use pipe joint compound or Teflon
tape for a proper seal.
Fastening wood paneling
Q How do I fasten 4x8 sheets of wood paneling to
a plaster wall?
R. van
Dyke, via e-mail
A You can glue the panels with construction
adhesive applied with a caulking gun. But for the glue to hold, the surface of
the wall must be sound. Remove peeling and loose paint with a scraper or wire
brush. The paneling can span minor holes (the size of a dollar bill), but
you’ll need to patch larger damaged areas.
Next, cut and fit the panel. Then apply the adhesive to
the back. Lay a bead around the perimeter of the panel 1 or 2 in. from the
edge, then fill in with a series of parallel gluelines spaced 8 in. apart. Push
the panel firmly against the wall to spread the glue, then pull the panel away
from the wall for about one minute to let the adhesive become tacky. Finally,
push the panel back against the wall so the glue grabs and holds them tight.
Position it carefully; the panel won’t move much at this point. Drive colored
paneling nails only where needed to hold the panel tight to the
wall.
Do composites meet decking standards?
Q My local building inspector told me to remove
my new composite decking because it hadn’t been approved. What’s going
on?
F.
Hudson, via E-mail
A You just got caught in the growth pains of a
new industry. Building codes require that materials being used, including
decking, conform to certain minimum standards. This is to ensure they’re
strong, durable and safe.
Unfortunately, many brands of composite decking
(plastic/wood blends) and other decking materials that substitute for wood are
fairly new and haven’t undergone the required testing for approval. Or the
manufacturers simply haven’t submitted them for approval before marketing
them.
To avoid this problem, call your local building inspector
and ask if the brand you intend to buy is on the approved
list.
Removing ivy from stucco
Q I’m prepping my stucco house for painting. Last
year I cut the vines back. Is there a fast way to remove the dried parts still
clinging to the stucco?
D.
Franz, via E-mail
A You’re doing the right things in the right
order. An experienced painter says it’s easiest to pull the vines down and let
the clinging pieces dry. Then remove the bulk of them with either a hand-held
wire brush or a wire wheel mounted to a drill or angle grinder. Don’t worry
about removing the disks that bonded the vine to the stucco because the paint
will cover them just fine. Even though the ivy and other climbing plants are
attractive, I’d keep them off the painted stucco.
Art Direction • GREGG
WEIGAND
Photography • BILL
ZUEHLKE