Cleaning soffit vents

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Q I’ve noticed that my soffit vents look dirty. Do I need to clean them, and if so, what is the best method?

K. Randall, via e-mail

A Yes, you should clean soffit (eave) and other types of attic air intake vents at least every couple of years, if not annually. The best way to clean them is with blasts of compressed air to blow away dust, dirt and any loose insulation that may have fallen into the soffit area (see photo below).

Attic ventilation is critical to the health of your house. It begins with soffit vents that inhale outside air—necessary to create an airflow that moves warm attic air out the roof vents. Once the air enters the soffit, it usually proceeds through an air chute or some other opening along the underside of the roof into the attic where it helps push warm attic air out the roof vents (photo right). The plastic air chutes ($1 each from home centers and building suppliers) in each rafter space keep the air path clear between the rafters and the roof sheathing.

The benefits of ensuring good attic airflow are fourfold:

• Reduces moisture buildup that prevents mildew growth and rot on your roof’s framing and sheathing

• Reduces cooling costs during hot weather, which can be dramatic if your attic is underinsulated

• Extends shingle life by keeping the roof cooler in hot weather

• Reduces ice dams and the potential damage they cause during snow season.

To learn more about other common causes of poor attic ventilation and how to fix them, see “Improve Attic Ventilation,” Nov. ’00, p. 54, and “Defeat Ice Dams,” Sept. ’00, p. 35. To order copies, see p. 5.

Using frozen paint

QI have a can of latex paint that’s been in the garage during below-freezing temperatures. Is it still good?

J. Gresham, via e-mail

A Freezing does ruin latex paint, but it can survive a few freeze/thaw cycles. Allow the paint to slowly warm up to room temperature, then stir it well. If the paint color and consistency appear normal, then it should be all right to use. If it looks like cottage cheese, it was frozen too long and you should let it dry on newspaper in a safe place, then put it in the trash.

Setback thermostats save money

QWe’ve always used a setback thermostat to lower the temperature at night and during the day while we’re gone. My son-in-law says we’re not saving anything, claiming the amount of energy used to reheat the house is far greater than if we left the thermostat set at a constant temperature. Who’s right?

Dick and Anne Brown, Elkins Park, PA

A You’re right. Your son-in-law holds a common misconception, which has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building temperature drops to the lower setting. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time the heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.

Studies show you can cut costs by as much as 20 percent by lowering your thermostat 5 degrees F at night and 10 degrees during the day when no one is home. The same goes for raising the temperatures by that same amount when using air conditioning in warmer climates.

However, if you have a heat pump without a setback thermostat that’s designed for heat pumps, you won’t save money in this scenario because it causes the heat pump to operate inefficiently, which cancels the savings.

Instant garage light

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QMy wife would like more light in the garage when she arrives home after dark. The bulb in the garage door opener isn’t enough. What’s a good solution?

A. Aumock, via e-mail

AFor more light, simply replace your existing light switch near the door leading to the house (in an attached garage) with a motion-activated switch that works by detecting a moving object that emits heat (such as a person or a car). Not only will this provide automatic instant light when the car arrives home, it also will light up the garage when entering from the house, and then will shut off automatically.

The Eagle brand switch we installed (about $16) allows you to adjust the length of time the lights stay on from 5 seconds to 20 minutes. It also features an adjustable photo cell that can switch the lights on only when it’s dark or when it’s daylight, too. It also allows for manual on/off switching. Coverage area of the sensor is a 150-degree-wide pattern that senses 15 ft. on the edges of the pattern and 30 ft. dead ahead of the sensor.

Note: These motion switches usually control either incandescent (regular light bulbs) or fluorescent fixtures. However, one brand (Decora by Leviton) did not work on fixtures with electronic ballasts (this wasn’t indicated on the package, only on the inside instructions).

When buying the switch, make sure you don’t exceed the switch’s maximum wattage rating or volt amperage (VA) rating. To calculate it, simply add up the total wattage of all bulbs. To get the VA, multiply that total by 1.25.

Best washing machine?

QMy washer is on its last leg. Do you recommend that I buy a new, energy-efficient front-loading machine, or stick with a top-loader?

N. Anderson, via e-mail

AIf you’re looking for best overall performance, you can’t beat a front-load washer, but you’ll currently pay a premium for them. Some cost $1,000 or more, but you can find a few models (made by Kenmore/Sears, Frigidaire and GE) in the $600 to $900 range.

Compared with a top loader, a front-load machine has many advantages: quieter operation, lower water use (saving energy by heating smaller quantities of water) and reduced drying time (its faster spin cycle yields drier clothes exiting the washer— saving more energy). It’s also gentler on clothes (no agitator to rub and potentially weaken fabric), handles unbalanced loads better, and offers larger load capacity (stuff in up to 20 lbs. of dry laundry vs. 14 lbs. for most top loaders—a time saver).

On the downside, front-load washer cycle times tend to run a bit longer (60 to 80 minutes vs. 40 to 60 minutes for top-load), you can’t soak as much laundry, and there are currently fewer high-efficiency detergents (which are recommended for front-loaders for best results).

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Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND

Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE

Consultant • AL HILDENBRAND, MASTER ELECTRICIAN