Can I install my own vinyl replacement
windows?
Q
I had a company submit a bid to replace my old
wood double-hung windows with vinyl insert windows. I was shocked at the high
cost. It doesn’t seem to be a very complicated project. Can I do it
myself?
J. Lewison, via E-mail
A Yes, you can and you’ll save a ton
of money too. This project requires only basic tools and skills. It’s not
unusual for window replacement companies to charge $500 or more per window.
That’s about $200 for the vinyl window and $300 for labor and
overhead.
Before deciding to tackle the job
yourself, check the condition of your existing window frames. If they’re
rotten or badly out of square, the whole unit, including the frame, may need
replacing. This is a much bigger and more complicated job than installing a
vinyl window insert and may require a pro.
If the frames are sound, the next step is
to measure the interior width and height of each window frame side to side and
top to sill. Double-check these measurements to ensure their accuracy so you
don’t end up with a window that doesn’t fit. In most cases, the old
frame dimensions will match a standard-size vinyl window.
Use these measurements to order the
windows from a lumberyard or home center. The price will vary depending on the
manufacturer and the features you request. Order windows with insulated glass
(two layers). Then consider whether to copy the style (single or multiple glass
panes) of the old windows or to change it.
The windows install from the inside. Give
yourself at least half a day to install the first unit. Once you’ve
learned the steps, the second installation will go much faster.
Here’s a summary of the steps:
-
Remove and save the inside stop. It’ll be reused in the
same place.
-
Remove the old lower window sash (not shown).
-
Pull out the parting stop (see top frame
detail). Don’t worry about breaking it; you won’t be reusing
it.
-
Remove the old top sash (not shown).
-
Either remove the sash liners and springs
or open the sash pockets and pull out the weights. Remove the sash cord pulleys
and stuff the weight pockets with fiberglass insulation.
-
Push the new vinyl unit into place tight
against the outside stop and drive the mounting screws in the sides.
-
Caulk around the outside and install the vinyl trim
pieces.
-
Reinstall the old inside stop.
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Do I need to move my electrical boxes?
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Q
I’m installing wood wainscot paneling in
my dining room. Do I need to move the electrical outlets to make them flush
with the paneling?
B. Zimmerman, via E-mail
A You sure do. You could move the boxes
out, but you’d have to cut the wall open. It’s easier to use a
plastic or steel extension ring. They’re available up to 1-1/4 in.
deep.
To install an extension ring, first turn
off the power to the receptacle at the main panel, then remove the cover plate
and unscrew the receptacle from the box. Pull the receptacle away from the box
(don’t disconnect the wires). If you’re using a steel ring, press a
grounding clip onto it and connect a 6-in. grounding wire. Connect the other
end to the ground pigtail. Fasten the receptacle back to the box using the
longer screws that come with the extension ring.
How do I repair cracks in drywall?
Q There are fine cracks
in the walls over the corners of several windows and doors in my family room
addition. The cracks run from the window trim up to the ceiling. Before I
repaint the room, is there a permanent fix?
T. Klowski, via E-mail
A If you just spackle over the cracks and
go your merry painting way, the cracks will certainly reappear. Like the tip of
an iceberg, the surface crack is only the visible part of the problem. The
drywall is cracked all the way through because of movement of the structural
framing. This is common in new construction as the wood dries out and the
addition settles. Often this movement stops after a few years, but sometimes it
doesn’t.
While I can’t guarantee a permanent
fix, this approach will give you the best shot at it.
-
Cut open the crack with a utility knife.
Be bold and aggressive. You want to widen the crack to about 1/8 in. almost all
the way through the drywall. You may find that the surface crack is right on
top of a joint between two pieces of drywall. Be sure to cut open the joint and
clean it out.
-
Use a setting-type joint compound to fill
the huge canyon you’ve carved into your wall. Let it dry and sand it
flush with the wall.
-
Apply drywall tape and three coats of
joint compound. See “Drywall Taping,” April ’01, p. 35, for
detailed instructions. To order a copy, see p. 6.
Can oil-based polyurethane be used over water-based?
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Q Would it be OK to
apply a coat of oil-based polyurethane over the original water-based poly on my
hardwood floor?
Marlene Kraich, Alpharetta, GA
A I called several flooring wholesalers
and veteran floor finishers and they assured me that you can do it if the
original coating has completely cured. Since the curing period for water-based
poly is 30 to 60 days, your floors are OK to recoat. You’ll have to
lightly buff the old finish with a power buffer to prepare it for the new
polyurethane.
Rent a power buffer ($40) and buy a fine
(150-grit) screen (shown below). Use a light touch to avoid cutting through the
finish and into the stained wood. Before applying the polyurethane, vacuum the
floor thoroughly and then wipe up the remaining dust with a cloth dampened with
mineral spirits.
Ventilate the area well and wear a
respirator rated for organic fumes (follow the label warnings on the
polyurethane can) when applying the finish. Stay off it overnight and give it a
few days to cure before bringing in furniture or laying rugs down (or they may
stick permanently!).
Where can I buy glass doorknobs?
Q I’m looking for
glass doorknobs that can replace present-day knobs. All I can find are ones
that fit on the old-style spindle. Do you know of any sources?
J. Crau, Oklahoma City
A A company called Emtek manufactures
glass-handled door locksets. It sells through dealers and retailers nationwide.
Call (800) 356-2741 or view the catalog at emtekproducts.com. Go to
kwiklocks.com for an on-line retailer.
I’ve used Emtek’s locks on
remodeling projects and have been pleased with their quality. While the company
does carry knobs that will fit the threaded spindles of older-style locksets, I
don’t know if its standard knob will fit onto your locksets. You’ll
have to ask the salesperson if the knob will fit your particular lock. To
figure out the brand of lockset, look at the mortise plate that surrounds the
bolt on the edge of the door. Often the manufacturer’s name is stamped
there.
Correction
In our Sept. ‘02 issue, we published the
incorrect retail price for Thompson’s new WaterSeal Advanced deck
waterproofer (New Products, p. 104). The correct price is $19 to $21. We
apologize for any inconvenience.
Art Direction• GREGG
WEIGAND
Photography• BILL
ZUEHLKE
