
Photo 1
Problem: Nail Blowout
Solution: Angle The Gun In

Photo 2
Once you master this angle technique, you’ll have no trouble shooting nails exactly where you want them. Start by positioning the center of the nail gun tip exactly where you want the nail to enter the wood. Then carefully align the nail gun with the path you want the nail to take, just like when you line up a pool cue before striking the ball. Photo 1 shows what can happen if you get careless and angle the gun wrong. When you’re nailing into door jambs or other areas where only one side shows, point the nail gun slightly to the hidden side where it won’t show if the nail pops through (Photo 2).
Occasionally nails hit a knot or follow the grain—and pop out despite your best effort. If this happens, break or cut
off the protruding nail with a nipper and use your nail set to recess the remainder.
End Splitting: Place Nails Accurately

Photo 3
Problem: Split Trim at the Ends
Solution: Nail Farther From End
Driving nails with these tools is so simple that it’s easy to get carried away and put nails where they don’t
belong. (Ask any painter who has to putty all the extra holes!) With practice, you’ll get a feel for where the nail comes out of the gun and be able to drive a nail precisely. Photo 3 shows the result of placing a nail too close to the end of a molding. The same thing will happen if you nail too close to the end of a baseboard, especially on short pieces. Make sure to keep nails a few inches from the end of moldings to avoid splitting the wood. Brad nailers, which drive thinner and shorter nails, are the exception. With these, you can usually nail within 1/2 in. of ends and 1/8 in. of edges without splitting the wood.
Wrong Nail Size: Use the Right-Size Nail

Photo 4
Problem: Exposed Nail
Solution: Use The Right Size

Photo 5
Changing nail sizes in the middle of a job is bothersome. It’s tempting to use the nails that are loaded and hope for the best. But it’s a bad idea (Photo 4). We should have used a 3/4-in. brad or at most a 1-in. 16-gauge nail on this miter. A good rule of thumb is to pick a nail long enough to go through the material you’re fastening and penetrate the underlying wood about 3/4 in. to 1 in. Allow more penetration for heavy-duty jobs like nailing door jambs, and less for fine work like securing miters.
I own a 15-gauge nailer and a brad nailer and keep them both connected to separate hoses while I work. (Install a T-fitting at the compressor to connect two hoses at once.) With this setup, it’s an easy matter to pick up the brad nailer for intricate jobs like pinning miters (Photo 5).