12. Center and
nail the two-piece middle 2x8 beam members to the 2x10s with alternating 10d
nails spaced every 8 in. Then nail up the inner 2x10s with the same nailing
pattern.
13. Push the 2x6 ceiling ties against the rafters
and scribe the end cuts to match the underside of the rafters. Number them to
avoid confusion. Cut a second 2x6 ceiling tie for each rafter using the ones
you scribed as patterns for their mates. Tack one under each rafter with a 10d
toenail and save their mates for the other side of the sandwich later.
Click image to enlarge.
14. Cut the middle 2x4 ceiling tie boards so
they’re flush with the outside of the beams. Nail them to the rafters and
the 2x6 ceiling ties with 10d nails spaced every 12 in. along each edge. Cut
the 2x4 rafter center boards as shown here and in Fig. A and nail them to the
center of the 2x6 rafters. Cut the center 2x4 rafter tails so they’re
just short of the horizontal level cut.
Click image to enlarge.
15. Cut two 4-ft. lengths of 2x10 and tack them
between the 2x4 rafter and ceiling tie parts to lay out the curved decorative
braces (our positions vary because of the differing roof slopes). Mark the
lengths at the 2x4s. Bend and clamp a thin board and trace arcs about 7-1/2 in.
apart on both sides. Cut them with a circular saw and jigsaw and nail them into
place.
Click image to enlarge.
16. Nail on the previously cut 2x6 rafters and 2x6
ceiling ties to the 2x4s to complete the rafter and tie sandwiches. Place 10d
casing nails every 12 in. Toenail the rafters to the ridge beam.
Click image to enlarge.
17. Transfer the rafter tail length from the house
rafter to the outermost rafter and snap a chalk line to that mark. Draw the
1-in. end cut with a square and the level cut on both sides of each rafter
using a 2- or 4-ft. level. Make the rafter tail square cuts first with the
circular saw, then make the horizontal level cuts.
Click image to enlarge.
18. Lay the first course of tongue-and-groove roof
decking with the groove side facing downhill flush with the rafter ends. Nail
the roof decking into one rafter of each rafter pair with two 10d nails. Select
lengths so butt seams fall randomly throughout the ceiling. Halfway to the
peak, check to make sure the boards are running parallel to the ridge beam. If
they’re not, adjust the next few courses slightly to fix the problem.
Snap a chalk line flush with the edge of the fascia board and cut off the
decking ends with a circular saw.
Click image to enlarge.
19. Nail the shingle molding onto the eave edge
flush with the top of the decking with 7d nails into the rafters and the
decking. Notch the gable-end shingle molding around the ridge and nail it to
the fascia. Cut the end of the gable shingle molding flush with the eave
molding with a handsaw.
Click image to enlarge.
20. Staple roofing felt onto the decking and
shingle the roof following the manufacturer’s instructions on the
wrappers. Bend and tuck 5 x 7-in. shingle tins under the siding and over the
top half of each shingle for every course against the house.
Tip
It’s easiest to slide the step
flashing up from the bottom edge of the last piece of siding.
Click image to enlarge.
21. Cut and assemble the tapered plywood post-base
sides using Fig. B as a guide. Raise the top slip frame 5 ft. above the floor
and hold it in place with a 2x4 block toenailed into the post. Nail the side
pieces to the top and bottom slip frames and to the 2x2s with 7d galvanized
nails spaced every 6 in.
22. Shingle the pilasters by alternating overlaps
at each course and corner. Using a pencil, lightly draw level lines about 8 in.
up from the bottom of the course below for straight shingle guidelines. Hold
each shingle plumb and scribe angles on the backside of the shingle.
Tip
The cedar base trim will last longer and
look better over time if you hold it an inch or so above patios to keep the
wood dry.
