Click Image to enlarge.
How can I eliminate floor
squeaks?
Q
I have annoying floor squeaks in my
second-floor hall and bedrooms. Are there ways to eliminate these squeaks
without tearing off the drywall on the ceiling below?
T. Jones, via E-mail
A Yes, you
can eliminate these floor squeaks—with determination and some luck!
Typically, squeaks occur when wood elements move and rub against nails (thus
the squeaks). The solution is to use screws to tightly pull together the wood
pieces (no squeaks). It’s tougher if you can’t get at the floor
from below.
The strategy: Locate the squeak, find the
nearest joist, and tighten the flooring to the joist or subfloor with a
trim-head screw driven through the floor.
Step one: Locating the
squeak and the joists
Walk back and forth across the floor and do
some detective work to find the spot that’s squeaking. Kneel down near
the squeak and have another person walk across the floor. Use a piece of
masking tape to mark its probable location. Next, locate the joist nearest to
your mark.
Tip
If you’re going
nuts listening to numerous squeaks under carpeting, roll back the carpet and
pad, the whole floor. The silent relief locate the joists and screw off may be
well worth the $100 to have the carpet re-stretched.
-
If there are floor heating registers, pull the register out and
probe along the edge of the metal duct-work. Usually these floor registers are
installed next to a joist.
-
Probe through the carpet and subfloor
using a finish nail as a drill bit; it won’t grab the carpet fibers like
a twist bit.
-
Sometimes the joint between plank
flooring pieces is wide enough for a 1/16-in. twist drill bit to squeeze
through. Drill through the subfloor along this joint and probe with the bit to
locate the joist.
-
Once you find a joist, it’s a good
bet that the rest are spaced 16 in. on center (although sometimes 19-1/4 in. or
24 in. on center). Lay a tape measure out from the known joist to locate the
others.
Step two: Eliminate the
squeak
Click Image to enlarge.
Drive a trim-head screw through the flooring and into the
joist. If you’re working on carpet, then drive it right through. Go
slowly so that carpet fibers won’t grab and wind onto the screw threads.
On hardwood, first drill a clearance hole through the hardwood plank, followed
by a 1/8-in. deep countersunk hole the size of the screw head. Drive the trim
screw tight and then putty the screwhole.
If the squeak’s gone, mission
accomplished. If not, drive another screw into the joist several inches away.
Still squeaks? Try another spot off to the side of the joist. Because
you’re literally working in the dark, this is a real hit-or-miss process.
If you’re up to three or four attempts and you’re still not
victorious, sit back and reassess how important this “squeak
mission” is to you— especially if you have a hardwood floor.
Sometimes you just have to live with it. Happy hunting!
Why is my new water-shutoff
valve leaking at the handle?
Click Image to enlarge.
Q
I installed a new water-shutoff valve on the
pipe that leads to my outside hose spigot. It leaks when I turn it on but not
when the valve is shut off. Can the valve be fixed or does it need to be
replaced?
Peter Imhoff, via E-mail
A The leak is
probably occurring around the valve stem. The valve stem passes through a
“packing” nut and washer, which provide a watertight seal. In the
“old” days, fiber was packed tightly around the stem, hence the
name.
First try tightening the packing nut
one-eighth to one-quarter turn with a wrench. On a new valve, this almost
always stops the leak. If it doesn’t, the packing washer is probably
damaged and will need replacement.
Here’s how. First shut off the water
to the leaking valve. Next remove the handle from the stem and then loosen and
remove the packing nut. Remove the old washer and slide on the new one.
Reinstall the packing nut, tighten lightly with a wrench (don’t
overtighten at this or any other point) and reattach the handle. Turn the water
back on, open the repaired valve and check for leaks. If it’s leaking,
tighten the packing nut one-eighth of a turn at a time until the leak
stops.
What finish should I use for
my stone hearth?
Q
My new fireplace has a limestone cap on the
hearth, which is about 18 in. from the floor. It’s a great seat, but when
I sit on it my pants pick up a chalky residue. Should I clean it with water and
then seal it? What kind of sealer should I use? Please advise.
Ken Florey, Lombard, IL
A It sounds
like you have an unpolished limestone hearth. This is a porous material and
should be sealed both to protect it from stains and to eliminate the chalky
residue. Buy a clear penetrating stone sealer from a home center, ceramic tile
shop or stone yard. Penetrating sealers are designed to soak in, leave no
surface film and minimally affect the look of the stone. Still, apply the
sealer on an inconspicuous area to be sure you like the finished look.
First remove dirt, using either soap and
water or a specific product recommended by the sealer manufacturer. Rinse
thoroughly and let the stone dry overnight.
Apply the sealer with a paint roller or
brush. Many sealers are flammable, so don’t have a fire going while you
do this. Also be sure you open windows for good ventilation. Apply liberal
coats so that the surface stays wet for several minutes. Wipe up any standing
puddles after a few more minutes. Read the directions that come with the
sealer, as a second coat may be required soon after the first.
Here’s one mail-order source of
penetrating sealers: Stone Care International, (800) 839-1654,
www.stonecare.com.
Why are my water pipes
freezing?
Q
Last winter my bathroom sink water pipes
froze. This hasn’t happened before. I thought having insulation blown
into the walls would keep my pipes from freezing. What happened?
Joe Frege, Chattanooga, TN
A First off,
water pipes should never run through an outside wall if freezing weather is a
possibility. But, given that they’re already there, here’s an
anti-freeze strategy and maybe an explanation for your particular
problem.
The pipes have to be insulated from the
cold exterior side of the wall cavity, and kept warm with the heated interior
air to keep them from freezing. Your blown-in insulation probably did a better
job of keeping the pipes cold rather than warming them.
To correct the problem, first shut off the water to the
bathroom pipes and cut open the cabinet back and the drywall to expose the
plumbing. Open the hole gradually to avoid accidentally cutting the pipes or
electrical wiring. A keyhole saw is the safest tool to use for this. A
reciprocating saw is faster but can cut into a pipe or wire very quickly. Size
an opening so a return air grille will cover it when you’re done. Remove
the existing insulation and then work rigid insulation between the pipes and
the exterior sheathing. You’ll probably have to use several pieces.
Remember, you want the warm air to circulate along the pipes, so don’t
put insulation between the pipes and the interior. Also, seal all holes and
cracks on the exterior side so cold air cannot penetrate. If you can’t
work within an opening small enough for a return air grille, open more of the
wall.
A return air grille allows warm air from
the house to circulate into the wall cavity. If this grille is inside a
cabinet, you might have to install an additional grille on the face or side of
the cabinet.
Click Image to enlarge.
Art Direction• GREGG
WEIGAND
Photography• BILL
ZUEHLKE
