The next time you have to work up high, consider renting scaffolding rather than struggling with ladders. Scaffolding
provides a large, stable work platform where you can stack materials and set up your tools. With scaffolding, you can easily reach all areas of the repair to do a better job in half the time. And you’ll save tons of time and energy by not constantly climbing up and down to reposition your ladder.
Guard rails attached to the top of the scaffold frames allow you to concentrate on the task at hand without worrying about falling. We’ll show you how to set up your rented scaffolding so it’s safe and secure and then show you a few of the home-repair jobs where scaffolding really shines.
Rent Scaffolding For Those High Jobs
The frame scaffolds we’re using
(sometimes referred to as “pipe-scaffold”) are perfect for exterior
work and are available at most full-service rental centers. Also check the
Yellow Pages under “Scaffolds, Rental” for businesses that
specialize in scaffolding rental and sales. You’ll usually get lower
rates and expert advice from these specialists.
The setup we show is ideal for most
projects around the home. It consists of 5-ft. standard end frames and cross
braces to make a 7-ft. long scaffold. In addition to base plates and a
guardrail system, the main components of a scaffolding system are the frames
and cross braces that you stack and combine end to end to make larger
scaffolds. The most common frame size is 5 ft. wide and 5 ft. tall, but other
sizes are available depending on your needs.
The distance between frames is determined
by the length of the cross braces, 7- and 10-ft being the most common and
economical. Rent adjusting screws and base plates for easy leveling on uneven
ground (Photo 1). Rent
casters if you plan to move the scaffolding. Top the frames with three 7-ft.
planks and a guardrail system. The assembly shown in costs about $85 a week to
rent. Adding another 5-ft. tall section would add about $20 a week. Measure to
determine the ideal platform height for your job. Keep in mind that your
working height is about 4 to 6 ft. above the scaffold planks. The rental
salesperson will help you choose the correct size and style of scaffold for
your task.
I’d recommend limiting the height to
two sections. After that, stability becomes an issue and you have to take
special precautions. Once the height exceeds three times the minimum width of
the tower, you must tie the scaffolding to the building at specific intervals.
A five ft. wide scaffolding needs to be tied in when it exceeds 15 ft. high. We
won’t cover scaffold tie-ins in this article. Ask your scaffold-rental
specialist for specifics on tie-ins, if necessary.
Most rental centers will deliver and pick
up rented scaffold for an additional fee. Otherwise you’ll need a pickup
truck or trailer.
Start With A Solid Foundation
Even though the basic setup procedure is
the same, scaffold hardware varies slightly from one manufacturer to the next.
Ask for manufacturer’s instructions if your scaffold looks different from
that shown here.Photos 1-5show
you how to set up the frame and install the planks.
The key to a safe scaffolding is a solid
foundation. If the base plates or casters rest on dirt, grass, asphalt or other
soft material, put them on top of lengths of 2x10 lumber to prevent them from
sinking in (Photo 4).We
shimmed the wood pads to level them because we didn’t want to damage
the lawn by digging level spots. But a better method is to level a spot with a
shovel before placing the 2x10 blocks. Never set the scaffolding on loose fill,
snow or next to holes or ditches.
Adjusting screws make leveling the
scaffolding easy and safe. Never stack bricks, concrete blocks or scraps of
wood under the frame to level it. If your ground slopes more than about a foot
over an 8-ft. distance, rent leg extensions. Extreme slopes may require the
addition of a short scaffold section under one end of the scaffolding.
Ask Your Rental Agent For Help
Don’t be tempted to save money by
using your own ordinary wood planks for the work surface—they
aren’t strong enough. Rent special scaffold planks to cover the frames
from side to side. Then install the guardrail posts and rails. Rails
aren’t required on the side of the scaffolding that faces the building as
long as the scaffolding is within 14 in. of the building. Our scaffolding
didn’t require them, but if you’re working where people might walk
below the scaffold structure, wire on 2x4 toe boards to prevent tools and
materials from falling and injuring someone. Rest the 2x4 boards upright around
the perimeter of the scaffold planks, screw or nail the corners together and
attach them to the base of the guardrail posts with No. 10 wire.
Once the scaffolding is assembled and in
place, double-check that it’s level and resting securely on all four base
plates or casters. If it rocks, readjust one of the screws to stabilize the
scaffolding. Use the built-in ladders to climb the scaffolding. Don’t
climb on the cross braces. Recruit a helper to hand materials and tools up to
the platform. If you can’t reach, use a rope and bucket to pull tools to
the top.
Casters allow you to move the scaffolding
easily without taking it apart (Photo,
above right), but take a few extra precautions:
-
Install a special horizontal brace
diagonally between the two outside frames to keep them square. Ask your
supplier about this.
-
Never roll the scaffolding with tools,
materials or passengers on the planks.
-
Lock the casters before climbing the
scaffolding.
-
Avoid overhead wires when moving the
scaffolding. You could be electrocuted if you bump power lines.
-
Don’t roll the scaffolding on steep
slopes or near ditches or holes.
Photos 6-8 show
a few of the jobs where scaffold rental really pays off. If you have an old
house that needs tons of repairs, it might be cheaper in the long run to
purchase a basic scaffold setup. The cost runs about $650 for one section
with base plates and guardrail. Make sure the scaffolding you buy is compatible
with scaffold from the local rental shop in case you have to rent additional
parts.
Click image to enlarge.
1. Begin
assembly by laying two end frames about 7 ft. apart, near your worksite. Slide
on the adjusting screws and base plates or casters now so you don’t have
to lift the entire scaffolding later to put them in.
2. Secure the base plates (or optional casters) to the adjusting screws with the special
pigtails or toggle pins supplied. These pigtails are designed to lock in place.
Use the same connectors to secure the guardrail posts to the scaffold frame and
connect stacked scaffold frames where they join.
Click image to enlarge.
3. Stand one end frame and slide the crossbar ends over the pins. Rest the cross brace on
the ground to temporarily support the first end frame while you move the other
one into position. Tip the second frame up and slip the opposite end of the
cross brace over the pins in the second scaffold frame. Complete the frame
setup by attaching the second cross brace on the opposite side.
4. Slide the scaffold into position and slip 2x10 lengths of lumber under each base plate.
On sloping ground, level the blocks by shimming under one side as shown. Level
the scaffolding with the adjusting screws.
5. Lift the rented scaffold planks from the middle and angle them up through the frames
until both ends are above the frame. Then lower the plank until the ends hook
over the frames. Secure the plank with the swivel catches.
6. Prevent falls by installing a guardrail system. Slide the guardrail posts over the top
of each frame and secure them with a pigtail, toggle pin or bolt, depending on
what was provided with your scaffold components. Install top and bottom rails
between the posts.
Click image to enlarge.
7. Speed up your work by setting up a workstation on your scaffolding. Pull materials and
tools up with a bucket and rope. Major repairs like tuckpointing a chimney are
much easier from a scaffold than a ladder.
CAUTION:
Don’t work around electrical power lines. Watch overhead when moving
rolling scaffolding to avoid running into a power line.
8. Complete the first seven or eight rows of shingles from a scaffold to avoid having to
work from a ladder or lean precariously over the roof edge. Then nail roof
brackets along the eve and install toe boards before climbing onto the roof.
Use locking casters on the scaffolding so you can roll along the entire roof
edge.
