unclog
faucet aerator
clean
computer mouse
replace
light ballast
Unclog a kitchen faucet aerator
Click Image to enlarge.
1 WRAP the
jaws of a pliers with tape to keep them from scratching the aerator. Unscrew
the aerator body from the faucet and remove all the internal components. Clean
and reassemble.
If you get weak water flow when you turn
on the faucet, don’t assume your water pressure has suddenly gone bad.
You could simply have a filter screen, or aerator, that’s clogged. Remove
the aerator as shown in the photo, rinse it out and reinstall it. If it’s
corroded or worn, take it to a home center and pick up a new one ($3 to $5).
Most stores have a slick gauge you can screw your old aerator onto to determine
which replacement to buy. If you can’t find a replacement for your
aerator, soak the parts in vinegar overnight, scrub them with an old toothbrush
and reinsert into the faucet (make sure to reassemble the parts in the same
order you removed them).
FIG. A AERATOR PARTS
Dirt usually collects on the mixer and
screen.
Clean a computer mouse
1 UNSCREW the
ball-cage housing cover of a hockey-puck type mouse to remove it. Other mouse
covers slide forward for removal.
2 SCRAPE OFF
any accumulated dried-on dirt from the internal rollers using the plastic cap
from a ballpoint pen. Clean the trackball with denatured alcohol on a lint-free
cloth. Blow out any debris, clean the rollers with a cotton swab moistened with
the alcohol and reassemble the mouse.
Have you ever had a computer mouse
“freeze?” No matter how furiously you shuffle the mouse back and
forth, the cursor only moves in one direction on the screen or won’t move
at all. The solution is not to smack it down hard on the mouse pad in hopes the
mice inside will wake up and start moving again. Chances are that dust has
rolled up on the trackball and is interfering with the mouse’s internal
rollers. Take 10 minutes, some cleaning supplies and the tips shown inPhotos 1 and
2to fix the problem so you can get back to work on the great
American novel (or a game of solitaire).
Replace a fluorescent light ballast
Click Image to enlarge.
1 UNPLUG the
fixture or turn off the power at the main panel. Remove the ballast compartment
cover to expose the internal wiring and ballast. The attachment method for
ballast covers varies widely among manufacturers. It may be attached with nuts
or clips or simply snapped into place.
CAUTION : TURN POWER OFF AT MAIN
PANEL BEFORE PERFORMING REPAIR.
2 SNIP the
old ballast wiring several inches from the end of the ballast with a
side-cutting pliers or wire snips. Cut all the wires connected to the
ballast.
3 UNSCREW the
ballast-mounting nut and drop the old ballast free (the ballast will have
either one or two mounting nuts). Hold on to the ballast with your free hand to
keep it from falling out.
4 MOUNT the
new ballast in the fixture. Strip the electrical wiring back 1/2 in. and
connect the matching-colored wires with twist-wire connectors.
When your fluorescent light flickers or
makes a loud and annoying hum, a degrading ballast is the cause. The ballast
takes in electricity and then regulates current to the bulbs. A typical ballast
will generally last about 20 years, but cold environments and bad bulbs can
decrease this lifespan significantly. You can get a new ballast at a hardware
store or home center and install it in about 10 minutes. However, buying a
ballast can be expensive ($15 to $50), so consider pricing a brand-new fixture
for comparison.
Start by flipping off the circuit breaker
or unplugging the light. Remove the bulbs and open up the fixture as shown
inPhoto 1. There
will be four to eight wires coming out of the ballast. show how to remove the
old ballast from the fixture. Confirm that the new ballast matches the old one
() and then install it as shown in .
After mounting the new ballast, replace
the ballast compartment cover and bulbs, and it should be good for another 20
years.
Tip
Click Image to enlarge.
Click Image to enlarge.
TAKE THE OLD BALLAST to
the store with you. Compare the new and old ballasts to verify that the wiring
diagrams, voltage and current match before installing the new ballast.
Art Direction• HOPE
FAY
Photography• BILL
ZUEHLKE
Consultant• AL
HILDEBRAND
