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Pressure washers are so much fun to use—and show
such dramatic and quick results—that you’ll be begging to clean
your neighbors’ siding, driveways and cars once you’ve finished
your own.
You can rent or buy a pressure washer to clean nearly any
outdoor item. By following the tips in this article, you’ll learn how to
use pressure washers safely and efficiently.
Two types of pressure washers and how they
work
Pressure washers, whether they’re powered by
electric motors or gas engines, run a pump that pressurizes the water from your
garden hose to 1,000 lbs. or more, then forces it out through a spray wand. The
higher the pressure (measured in pounds per square inch—psi), the tougher
the cleaning jobs they can tackle. Both types require a steady, uninterrupted
supply of water (in gallons per minute—gpm). For occasional use, most
homeowners will find that a washer with a pressure range of 1,300 to 2,400 psi
works best.
Electric pressure washers deliver 1,300 to 1,400 psi,
require about 1-1/2 gpm and are the best choice for light-duty cleaning like
washing cars (Photo 3), outdoor grills and garage floors
(Photo 4). They generally cost less than $200 and
are quieter, lighter in weight and more portable than gas-powered washers. Many
have built-in tanks for optional detergent use. Always connect electric washers
to power outlets that are protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter
(GFCI) and use only 12- or 14-gauge extension cords.
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INSERT individual nozzle tips into the
spray wand by retracting the quick-coupling collar, pushing the tip in as far
as it will go and releasing the collar. Pull on the tip to confirm that
it’s firmly locked in position. Point the spray wand away from people and
property when starting the pressure washer.
Spray nozzles for different tasks
Pressure washers that deliver less than
2,400 psi generally come with a single adjustable spray nozzle that delivers
zero to 60-degree fan patterns. Some brands offer accessory
“rotating” or “turbo” nozzles that clean more
effectively than standard adjustable nozzles because they spin the water
stream.
Heavier-duty units generally come with
four or five color-coded, individual nozzle tips (three are shown here). They
create specific fan patterns: wider (for using detergents), medium (for general
cleaning) and narrower (for blasting deep stains).
Most pressure washers that you’ll find for rent or
sale are gas-powered. This type can deliver higher water pressure than the
electric kind, some more than 3,000 psi. But gas-powered washers also require
more water: 2 to 3 gpm. These washers are the best choice for bigger jobs like
preparing siding for painting (Photo 2), removing
“aging” stains from wood decks (Photo 5)
and deep-cleaning concrete. You can rent one for about $60 a day, plus the cost
of accessories like chemical injectors (Photo 1) or longer spray wands for reaching high
places. Gas-powered washers (non-commercial units) cost $300 to $800 depending
on the pressure they deliver, their features and the engine and pump
quality.
Operating procedures
All pressure washers seem intimidating the first time you
use them. Have the rental center or tool retailer instruct you on its use, and
follow these guidelines:
Water supply. Make sure your
water supply can deliver the gallons per minute specified for your machine. For
example, if your pressure washer needs 2-1/2 gpm, time how long it takes your
garden hose to fill a 5-gallon pail. The garden hose must be 50 ft. long or
less and have a 3/4-in. inside diameter, with standard 3/4-in. hose fittings
for connecting to the washer’s inlet. To ensure that water circulates
unobstructed through the system, check the water inlet filter or screen and
clean it of debris. Also make sure the garden and pressure hoses are kink
free.
Safety concerns
Pressure washers deliver extreme
pressure and can cause serious injuries if misused. For safety, follow these
guidelines:
-
Don’t point the pressure washer at
people or pets or put your hand in front of the nozzle. The pressurized water
stream could actually penetrate your skin or cause serious
cuts.
-
Wear safety glasses when operating the
washer.
-
Don’t use pressure washers while
working from ladders. Once you squeeze the trigger, the powerful recoil on the
spray wand can throw you off balance and off the
ladder.
-
Maintain a minimum 6-ft. distance when
spraying water around power lines, electrical masts or
outlets.
-
Before uncoupling hoses, stop the
machine, turn the water faucet off and squeeze the spray wand trigger to
release all water pressure in the system.
-
Engage the safety lock on the trigger
when you’re not actually washing and when changing nozzle
tips.
Start-up procedure (Photo 1). Before starting the washer, it’s
imperative that water be flowing through the washer and out the spray wand.
Follow these steps:
-
Tighten all hose connections so no air can enter the
lines.
-
Set the spray wand to a low- or no-pressure setting to
prevent recoil, or kickback, when the washer is started. Electric washers and
gas washers with variable nozzles should be on low-pressure, wide fan settings.
Gas washers with individual nozzle tips (photos, p. 30) should have their nozzle tip
removed at this point.
-
Completely turn on the water faucet at the house. Squeeze
the spray wand trigger to prime the pump and purge air from the
system.
-
Start the washer (Photo 1).
If it’s a gas unit, steady it when pulling the starter cord by bracing
your foot against a wheel. Let the washer run for a minute to warm up.
To avoid
damaging the pump: Never run a washer longer than three to five minutes
(depending on the model) while the trigger is off.
-
With the washer running and the trigger locked
“off,” adjust pressure and spray settings, or insert nozzle tips in
the spray wand (right photo, p. 30). Now the washer is ready to
use.
Power cleaning techniques
Pressure washing removes dirt and grime, but it
isn’t designed to strip paint or kill mildew on siding or decks. For the
best cleaning results without damaging any surfaces, first test the pressure
setting and spray pattern on an inconspicuous place.
When
washing house siding, follow these rules:
-
Lay
tarps around the house perimeter to protect plants and collect paint chips
blown off during washing. Houses built before 1977 may have lead paint chips
that will have to be collected and properly disposed of at a hazardous waste
facility.
-
Don’t hold the spray wand “head on” to
the siding. This drives dirt into the surface rather than washing it away. Hold
the wand at a 45-degree angle to the siding and at a distance that yields the
best cleaning results without gouging wood or denting metal or
vinyl.
-
Work small areas at a time. To prevent streaks, start
washing from the bottom and work up. For even cleaning, use long, overlapping
strokes. Rinse the siding by working from the top down.
-
Avoid driving water up behind the siding by keeping the
spray stream level. Use an extension spray wand for reaching higher places.
Be careful
when using a lance extension. The “kickback” can throw it into
contact with power lines.
-
Don’t spray windows. The high pressure can break
them.
Better cleaning with
detergents
Detergents (about $6 to $14 a gallon) and accessory
brushes increase cleaning effectiveness while reducing cleaning time. When
renting or buying a pressure washer, inquire what accessories and detergents
are available for it. To prevent damage to the internal parts, never run bleach
in the machine or use detergents not designated for use in pressure
washers.
Detergents can only be run through pressure washers using
a wide spray pattern. In addition, electric pressure washers require a
low-pressure setting on the spray wand. Follow your machine’s
instructions for using detergents, diluting the detergent and (if necessary)
hooking up a chemical injector (Photo 1).
For the best cleaning results, first loosen the dirt with
plain water under high pressure using a medium spray pattern. Next, apply the
detergent using a wide nozzle setting and let the detergent sit a few minutes
to penetrate the dirt. Keep the surface wet to avoid possible discoloration or
damage by the detergent. Finish by resetting the nozzle to a medium pattern (or
changing the nozzle) and rinsing with plain water. Switch detergents by
draining the first detergent from the pressure washer, rinsing the system with
plain water and introducing the next detergent.
Maintaining the machine
If possible, store the washer indoors in the off-season to
avoid damage to the pump, hoses and spray wand. Otherwise, winterize them using
only antifreeze designed for recreational vehicles (RVs); see
Photo 6. When a gas-powered washer won’t
be used for a month or more, prevent damage to the engine by draining the
system of gas or adding a gas preservative to the fuel tank.
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1 TO START a gas-powered washer: (1) Clean any
debris from the inlet filter. (2) Connect any accessories (like this chemical
injector). (3) Run water through the washer for one minute to prime the system
and remove any air. (4) Squeeze the spray wand trigger to bleed water pressure,
and (5) pull the starter cord to start the engine.
2 WASH siding to prepare it for painting. Begin
with the wand’s nozzle 4 ft. from the house and slowly move it closer
until you achieve the desired cleaning effect. Grip the spray wand with two
hands, direct the water stream at a 45-degree angle to the siding and move the
water stream constantly.
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3 CLEAN cars and other items with an accessory
brush and detergent. First rinse the area with water, then switch to a
detergent wash and finish with a rinse.
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4 SCOUR oil
and dirt off a garage floor with a deter-gent: (1) Rinse surface dirt off the
floor at high pressure. (2) Change the nozzle setting to low pressure to
dispense detergent. (3) Finish by changing the nozzle back to high pressure and
rinsing with water.
5 RENEW deck boards by holding the spray wand at a
45-degree angle 1 to 2 ft. from the decking. Keep the water stream constantly
moving. Use a higher-pressure (2,000 psi or greater) gas-powered washer and a
concentrated spray nozzle setting (15-degree).
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6 WINTERIZE a pressure washer by filling the pump
and internal system with undiluted RV-type antifreeze. Insert a funnel into a
3-ft. section of garden hose (one with a male faucet coupling), attach the
coupling to the water intake on the washer and slide a 1-ft. section of hose
over the water outlet. Start the gas engine and pour antifreeze into the funnel
until a steady stream of antifreeze flows from the discharge hose. Stop the
engine, pull off the hoses, and seal the intake and outlet with duct
tape.
Art Direction • BECKY
PFLUGER
Photography • BILL
ZUEHLKE
Consultant • ROB
KELLNER, ABC RENTALS
