The kitchen in the house where I grew up was lit by a
single fluorescent ring bulb smack dab in the middle of the ceiling. It was too
bright when you clicked it on for a midnight snack and too dim when it came to
reading the fine print on the Nestlé chocolate chip package. But like
most kitchen lighting back then, it “worked.”
These days, “workable” just doesn’t cut
it. Most kitchens now serve as dining room, office and family room. Lights are
on in the kitchen more than in any other room in the home. And since we cook,
work, play and pay bills there, we need a wide range of lighting to create a
pleasant environment for all our activities and to prevent eyestrain and
accidents.
In the course of totally remodeling a kitchen or building
a new home, you might be able to afford the luxury of working with an architect
or designer to get your lighting and wiring just right. But until then (which
for some of us is never), there are simple ways to improve kitchen lighting
without a lot of hassle, dust and expense. Here are a few of the easiest, least
painful improvements.
Track Lighting Lets You Direct Light
Anywhere You Want
A single overhead fixture provides good light for general
cleaning and navigation but does a lousy job of casting light inside
cabinets—especially in deep and corner units. One solution is to use the
existing light fixture electrical box as a starting point for a new track
lighting system (Fig. A).
FIG. A TRACK LIGHTING
Replacing an existing central light
fixture with track lighting allows you to direct general, task and accent
lighting where you need
it.
Track lighting—available in incandescent,
fluorescent, and high- and low-voltage halogen versions—has multiple
fixtures that allow you to direct and focus light where you need it. T-, L- and
X-shaped connectors let you install tracks and lights in hundreds of
configurations. A wide variety of specialized fixtures allow you to customize
and rearrange your lighting as needed. There are highly focused units with
reflector bulbs for task lighting and others for general or mood light. Many
systems have adapters for pendant lighting too.
Once you’ve selected your fixtures, position them so
they don’t shine directly in your eyes. Don’t install fixtures
directly in line with sinks and other work areas; your head will block the
light. Install them to the sides instead, then angle them toward the target
spot. Install them where they won’t interfere with the swing of upper
cabinet doors. And since track lighting fixtures are so prominent, select a
system that complements the look and feel of your kitchen.
Undercabinet Lighting Puts Light Where You
Need It Most
Your body and the upper cabinets often block the light
from centrally located ceiling fixtures, keeping it from reaching the
countertops where you need it most. To avoid working in dim shadows, install
lights beneath the upper cabinets (Fig. B) to
illuminate those cutting boards and cookbooks.
FIG. B UNDERCABINET LIGHTING
Click image to enlarge.
Fixtures installed
beneath
cabinets cast bright, unobstructed light directly onto the work surface.
Install them toward the front of the cabinets with a small valance, if
necessary, so lights don’t shine in your eyes. Halogen lights (right)
burn hot to create a pure, bright light. Fluorescents (left) are long-lived,
inexpensive to operate and easy to install.
Undercabinet lighting is available in three
varieties:
Fluorescent lights are
reasonably priced and long-lived, and they cast an even, “cool”
light. They’re available in varying lengths to accommodate different
cabinet widths. Designers warn that fluorescent lights used in proximity to
certain strong wall or countertop colors can create an
“unappetizing” glow. T-5 fluorescent bulbs—about half the
diameter of standard fluorescent bulbs—provide good illumination without
being obtrusive.
Halogen lights, most commonly
in the form of small discs or pucks, cast a white, highly focused light
that’s easy to work by. Halogen light closely resembles sunlight.
Surface-mount and recessed fixtures are available.
Incandescent lights come in a
variety of wattages and configurations. Strips of incandescent minibulbs tend
to be of lower wattage and work better for ambient light than for true
“working” light.
Whichever type of lighting you select, install it toward
the front edge of the cabinets so it illuminates the entire countertop rather
than the wall. Install a 1- to 2-in. valance along the lower edge of the
cabinet to keep light from shining directly in your eyes. Where possible,
install continuous lighting so countertops are evenly lit. If you have shiny
countertops, use frosted bulbs or frosted lenses over the bulbs to minimize
harsh reflections.
According to electrical code, the cord of a plug-in-type
fixture can’t be permanently secured to the cabinet or wall with staples
or other fasteners (although it can be draped over an open-ended hook). A more
permanent, but more involved, solution is to install lights that can be
“hard wired” directly into the home’s electrical system and
controlled with a wall switch, like the fixture shown on the right in
Fig. B.
