This small deck comes with big, eye-catching features that
make it seem twice the size. We combined traditional decking with a
natural-looking stone wall to limit foot traffic and get full use of the space
for relaxation. The stone wall is set at a perfect bench height, so you have
plenty of built-in seating. In addition, the manufactured stone veneer has the
massive look of a solid stone wall but is much lighter and easier to build
with. The wall looks great, needs almost no maintenance and will last for
decades.
Click image to enlarge.
We’ll show you a foolproof way to lay out
and construct this ground-level deck, and simple steps for preparing and
installing manufactured stone walls.
This deck project is great for both
intermediate and advanced do-ityourselfers, since it requires only basic skills
with hand and power tools. But you will need help lifting the heavy wall caps
into place. Allow three or four full weekends for you and a helper to complete
it.
Our deck has two platforms that connect to doors on different
levels and provide for a gradual transition down to the yard. The main deck is
about 14 ft. square and the second is slightly more than 8 x 9 ft. The
materials for the platforms cost about $1,600, or $6 per square foot. To add
that grand look of stone, expect to spend $2,000 more. This translates to $59
per linear foot of stone wall.
You’ll need basic carpentry, concrete and masonry tools to
build this project. You probably have the carpentry tools: circular saw, drill,
hammer and level. The concrete and masonry tools (Photos 10 – 19)
are relatively inexpensive. You could buy most of them for under $50 total, or
borrow them from a friend or neighbor. The one somewhat expensive tool you’ll
need is a 4-in. grinder ($75) for cutting the stone (Photo 17). But
you could accomplish the task using a 7-1/4 in. diamond blade with your
circular saw. Finally, round up a posthole digger, a shovel and a
wheelbarrow.
FIG. A: Deck Frame Dimensions and Materials
Click image to enlarge.
NOTE:
All framing lumber and plywood is pressure treated
(P.T.)
Planning and Buying
Tips
Draw out your plan in detail (or modify
ours) and make a list of your lumber and other materials. Then shop at a
full-service lumberyard and plan to have it all delivered. This will allow you
to concentrate on building the deck rather than running to get the next load of
materials. The framing is .40 pressure-treated wood and the decking is
cedar.
Manufactured stone comes in a variety of
colors and styles, ranging from random fieldstone to rectangular-cut slate. The
stone we selected (“Country Ledge Mississippi” by Boulder Creek Co.) has the
look of weathered limestone. The stone is actually lightweight concrete poured
in molds cast from real rocks. It’s durable even in harsh climates and made to
last for more than 30 years. Buy it from brick and stone suppliers. Look in the
Yellow Pages under “Stone” or see the Buyer’s Guide below for manufacturers
that can direct you to a retailer in your area.
Buy your mortar from your stone supplier
as well. It’ll carry the stuff the pros use. These mortars tend to be more
workable than varieties found at home centers and will give you consistent
results.
Before you have any materials delivered,
submit your plans to the local building department. The stone wall adds
considerable weight, so if your plan varies from ours, hire an architect or
structural engineer to calculate footing locations and sizes. (It’ll cost about
$150.) The inspector will check the strength of the framing and issue a permit.
It’s not uncommon for an inspector to make minor changes in a plan, so be
prepared to adjust your lumber order if need be.
Set the
Ledger to Get Things Started
The first step in constructing our deck
was to cut the siding away from the house and fasten the ledger board
(Photo 1).
Cutting into your house might make you a little nervous. But if you follow our
tips and measure carefully, you won’t ruin anything.
FIG. B: Ledger Detail
Position the top of the deck about 1-1/2 in. below the
threshold to keep snow and water out of the house. Snap a level line on your
siding 1/2 in. above that height for siding clearance. Then measure and mark
the ends of the ledger according to your plan. If your siding is wood, set your
circular saw to the depth of the siding and cut the top and sides. Then pry the
siding off. If you have vinyl or aluminum siding, you may be able to cut it off
with several strokes of a utility knife, or use a circular saw with a plywood
blade. Another alternative is to simply remove a section of siding (as we did),
cut it and replace it later, replacing the bottom and side channels as
needed.
If you have brick, stucco or block walls,
you can skip this step and hang the ledger board directly against the face of
the masonry.
Select straight 2x10s for the ledger and
outer beam. Cut them to length, then lay them side by side and, following the
plan, mark the joist locations using a tape measure and square (Fig.
A).
Tip: Place an
“X” on the side of the line where the joist will sit.
Lag-screw the ledger board to the house
rim joist (Photos 1 and
2). Check local codes if you’re fastening into concrete or brick. Be sure to slip a piece of deck
flashing, available in 10-ft. lengths from your lumberyard, on top of the
ledger board and under the siding. (Some pros like to slip it under the
building felt as well.) You may have to pull or cut a few nails to slip the
flashing in place. Overlap additional lengths 2 in. and seal the seam with
silicone caulk.
How to
Pour "Dead-On" Footings
Misplaced footings are the most common
mistake in deck construction. Use the method shown in
Photos 3 and 4
and you’ll get exact footing placement on your first try.
This deck has only six footings, so you
can dig them using a manual posthole digger. If you have more, consider renting
a gas-powered auger. Dig them to the size approved on your plan and to the
frost depth in your region (Fig.
C). In most regions, the building inspector will want to measure the
depth and width of your holes before you fill them.
Before pouring concrete, reassemble the
deck frame and attach the anchors (Photo 5). If you feel confident in
your concrete finishing skills, go ahead and order a truckload of concrete and
pour the footings and wall caps at the same time. (See “Pour Concrete Caps”). For our footings and caps, we ordered 1-3/4 cu. yds. of concrete, allowing
about 10 percent extra for comfort. The pace is fast when you have a truck on
site. Be sure to have at least two extra people to help.
If you’re a little unsure of your
finishing skills, mix bagged concrete for the caps and footings. It’s more
work, but it will allow you to move at a more relaxed pace.
When you pour the concrete into the
footing holes, work it in with a stick or the handle of a shovel to fill any
voids. Then, using a trowel, strike off the top even with the bottom of the
framing.
Framing
Goes Fast
With the layout complete and the concrete
set, the framing goes fast. Cut all your joists to length and slip each into
the hangers (Photo
6).
Tip: Label any bow (crown)
with an arrow pointing up. When you install the joist, always set the crown
up.
Check that the top sits flush with the
beam and ledger. If you have to, slip a treated shim between the hanger and the
joist to raise it, or knock a little off the bottom with a chisel to lower it.
Blocking (Photo
6) stiffens a deck that has long joist spans. It’s now time for your
framing inspection.
FIG. C: Footing and Wall Framing
NOTE: P.T. means
pressure-treated.
FIG. D: Framing and Step Details
You’ll see the terrace effect take shape
as you construct the knee walls (Photos 7 and 8). Using a circular
saw, cut your 2x6 studs 18 in. long. Measure for the length of the plates
directly off the deck frame, not by referring to your plan. Nail the studs
every 16 in. between the plates with 16d galvanized nails. Then attach the
plywood, using the factory-cut edge to square up the walls, and tip them up
(Photos 7 and
8).
Prep the Walls With a Solid
Mortar Base
First staple No. 30 asphalt felt to the
plywood and wrap it over the top. It goes on a lot faster if two people work
together, one unrolling as the other staples. Overlap any joints by at least 6
in.
Nail up galvanized mesh next (Photo 9). Be
sure to wear heavy gloves to protect your hands—this stuff is sharp. Cut it
with regular metal-cutting shears. Some types of wire mesh have little bumps on
the back every 8 in. or so to space the mesh away from the wall (Photo 9). Put
the bumps against the wall.
FIG. E: Knee Wall Framing
Mix up the mortar and apply it to the
wall. Wear gloves and goggles to protect your skin from the caustic cement. Mix
the mortar two or three bags at a time in a wheelbarrow with a short,
flat-nosed shovel or a hoe. Add water slowly to the dry mix until it reaches
the consistency of whipped cream. Then mix it aggressively for five minutes.
Let it rest for a few minutes before you start applying it to the wall. Test
the consistency by drawing the shovel back and forth in the mix. It should have
a creamy texture yet still hold its shape when you spread it onto the wall
(Photo 10).
You’ll know immediately if the consistency is right. If the mortar is too wet,
it’ll drip all over the place and fall off the trowel. If it’s too dry, it will
be difficult to press into the mesh and it’ll peel off as you slide the trowel
across it. Add mortar mix or water as needed.
FIG. F: Stone Wall Details
Apply the mortar quickly. A helper is
crucial to keep a fresh supply mixed and ready to go. Keep the wheelbarrow out
of the direct sun to prevent the mortar from drying out.
The next step is to “scratch” horizontal
grooves into the mortar (Photo 11) after it firms up
slightly. Use a special tool called a “scarifier” ($7) that’s available at
stores that specialize in masonry tools, or simply a steel-tined garden rake.
The important thing is to set horizontal grooves to provide a good bonding
surface.
Cover the mortar scratch coat with plastic
and let it harden and dry for two days before applying the
stone.
Apply the Decking While the
Mortar Cures
We selected 2x6 cedar decking for this
project for its natural look, but you could also use one of the new
plastic/wood composites for extra durability. Start by attaching the riser trim
to the lower step (Fig.
D) then the 2x8 tread to the top on the lower platform. A
1-1/4 in. overhang on the tread creates a shadow line, making an attractive
step. Then work in toward the house, spacing the 2x6 boards with the casing
nails. Put the best-looking side face up. Start with a good, straight board and
align the others with it. To straighten a bowed board, lay it with the arc
against the installed one. Nail one end and work to the other, prying the board
straight with a chisel as you go (Photo 12).
FIG. G: Hawk
As you get within 3 ft. of a wall, measure
the remaining distance to see if it’s equal on both ends. If not, stretch your
spacing slightly between the boards to make the last board at the house (and at
the stone wall) even. You’ll probably have to rip (cut the long way) the last
board to width.
Apply the riser trim to the upper step and
nail on the 2x8 tread (Photo
12). Then lay the first board against the house, ripping it to the
width of the final board on the lower deck to make the decking line up. Butt
the ends of the deck boards up tight to the treads, but leave the other ends
about 1 in. from the knee walls so water and debris can fall through. The stone
will cover this gap once installed. When you’re done decking, place cardboard
over the surface to protect it from scratches and mortar stains while you’re
working with the stone.
