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1. Remove the spark plug wire. Then clamp a 2x4 block to the shroud to keep the blade from turning as you remove it.
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2. Squirt penetrating oil on the bolt head that holds the blade to the engine shaft. Give the oil 15
minutes to work its way into the threads. Using a socket wrench, turn the nut
in the same direction you would to remove a lid from a mayonnaise jar. Mark the
blade on the bottom so you can install it properly again.
3. Examine your blade carefully. If it’s cracked like this one or missing a chunk, toss it or
put it in the recycling bin and buy a new one.
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4. Grind the tapered cutting edges with a grinder only if you see nicks in the blade. Follow the
factory angle of the cutting edge. The grinder will remove nicks in the blade
much faster than you can file them. (If you don’t have nicks, go to Photo
5.) Don’t overheat the blade! Apply minimum pressure and move the blade
across the coarse grinding wheel. Dunk the blade end in a bucket of water after
each pass to keep it cool, then wipe it with a rag. Keep the rag clear of the
grinder.
TIP
Keep the piece moving as you grind so you don’t overheat the steel. Burning the steel will weaken
the edge, making it become dull sooner.
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5. File the ground edge with a 10-in. mill file. Keep the angle consistent and use long, broad
strokes away from you. Use firm pressure and push the file and your arms from
your shoulders, not your wrists.
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6. Balance the blade with a special plastic balancer available at hardware stores. Mark the heavy
end and grind steel from the very end of the blade (not the cutting edge) to reduce the weight.
7. Recheck the balance of the blade. Both sides should be even, as shown. A well-balanced
blade means extended engine life and a smoother-running mower.
8. Clamp the ax head in a vise and file the original bevel as shown. Use long, broad strokes from
your shoulders outward. Examine the edge and follow the original bevel. Next,
flip the ax around in the vise and file the other side. You must maintain the
edge in the exact center of the ax.
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Axes: File and Hone
Not all axes have the same blade bevel, so it’s important to follow the original bevel. Inspect the ax blade for any chips or nicks. If you find some nicks, grind them away with the grinder. Do the whole edge to preserve the shape of the blade. You must be careful not to burn the edge. Keep a bucket of water handy to douse the head after each pass, then dry it off and continue grinding. If your blade has only small nicks or irregularities, you can usually file them away with a 10-in. mill bastard file.
Filing produces very little heat, so you won’t need to worry about ruining the temper of the blade. Follow Photos 8 and 9 to get a blade as sharp as a pocketknife. If you have any visions of shaving with your ax like the lumberjacks of folklore, forget it. It’ll be sharp, but not that sharp.
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9. Grind the filed edge with a sharpening stone. Squirt a generous amount of honing oil on the stone and use a swirling circular motion into the blade. Keep the bevel the same as before. Use the coarse side of the stone first, then the fine. Keep
lubricating the stone with oil (use water for a special water stone) for a clean edge.
Shovels: 20 Strokes With A File
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Sharpening a shovel is one of those things most people don’t think of doing, like cleaning the coils of a refrigerator. Once
your shovel is sharp, the task of digging almost becomes fun. Along with sliding easily through soil, it’ll cut right through stubborn roots and sod.
In most cases, you’ll only need a file to sharpen a shovel, but if the edge has some chips or deep nicks, use the grinder first to reshape the edge, then file as shown in Photo 10. Once the shovel is sharp, don’t worry about the burrs you’ve created on the backside; they’ll disappear the minute you start digging.
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10. File along the blade of the shovel from each side to the center. Move the file in one continuous motion for a consistent edge. The angle should be about 45 degrees. It’ll take up to 20 strokes per side for a good edge. Use a bar clamp to hold the shovel firmly to the bench.
