Install a laundry chute
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Q
I grew up in
a house with a laundry chute in the hallway. My current home doesn’t have
one and I miss the convenience. What’s the simplest way to install a
chute between the first floor and the downstairs
laundry?
D. Keinzler, Iowa City, IA
A Installing a laundry chute can be a breeze if
you have an unobstructed path between the two floors—or impossible if you
encounter wires, plumbing or other obstacles.
The best place for a chute is often a hallway. The job is
easier if the wall runs parallel to the floor joists or the studs in the wall
are “stacked” directly on top of the floor joists below. Use a stud
finder to locate two studs, then bore a small exploratory hole to check for
obstructions.
To make the chute, use ordinary 3-1/4 in. x 12- or 14-in.
galvanized heating duct. You’ll also need a 90-degree elbow with a 6-in.
register opening and a pre-assembled laundry chute door. These materials are
available in the plumbing and heating sections at most lumberyards and home
centers. The total cost will be about $30.
[P.S. Some
communities have strict fire codes that prohibit or limit the installation of
laundry chutes, especially those that are two stories tall and present an
unobstructed pathway for smoke and fire to spread. Check with a local building
inspector before starting the project.
—S.S.]
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1 OPEN the wall for the chute by carefully
removing the baseboard then using a utility knife to cut out a chunk of drywall
42 in. high down the center of each stud. Use a reciprocating saw or handsaw to
cut out the base plate between the studs. Work the plate out carefully; the
drywall and the trim on the opposite side might be nailed to it. Then cut a
hole through the plywood floor for the duct to slide through. At the top of the
cutout, install a 2x4 piece of blocking between the studs as a nailing surface
for the frame of the laundry door.
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2 SNAP the rectangular duct pieces together and
use metal-cutting snips to expand the opening in the 90-degree elbow so
it’s just slightly smaller than your laundry door opening. Trim and fold
over the opening flap that you cut, then install the chute. Using sheet metal
screws, attach the duct to your top blocking and the studs on each side.
Duct-tape the joint between the two pieces on the inside and on the edges of
all openings so clothes won’t snag on sharp edges.
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3 INSTALL the laundry chute door after patching
and painting the drywall. Make sure at least two sides of the laundry door
frame are screwed to the underlying 2x4s. Perch a laundry basket on a table or
the floor at the bottom of the chute.
Bleeding a hot water radiator
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Q
Some of my
hot water radiators seem to be clogged. Several fins stay cold while others on
the same radiator are hot. Should I have the defective radiators
replaced?
Jim Mason, Arlington, VA
A The only thing that’s clogging your hot
water radiator is trapped air, and getting rid of it is simple. At the top of
your radiator, look for a small valve like the one shown. Use a radiator key,
1/4-in. 12-point socket, or a flat screwdriver (depending on your valve type)
and slowly turn the valve counter-clockwise until water starts dripping out.
This will release trapped air and let hot water into the cold fins. While
you’re at it, you should repeat the process with your other
radiators.
Bleeding the radiators will lower the pressure in your
system, so you might have to slowly add water to increase the pressure. Do this
by opening, then closing, the valve on the water pipe above the boiler. In
fact, you may need to add water while bleeding the radiator in order to purge
the air from the system. This is where a helper will save on trips up and down
the stairs. If you’re unfamiliar with your system, call a
pro.
How much pressure you need depends on how high the water
has to rise. The basic rule is 1 lb. of pressure for every 2 ft. of rise. Your
gauge may read in pounds, feet or both. A basic two-story house, with the
boiler and expansion tank in the basement, needs 12 to 15 lbs., or 25 to 30
ft., of pressure.
... and clearing a steam radiator vent
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Don’t confuse a hot water system with a steam system.
Steam radiators have an air vent, like the one shown, about halfway down the
side. Unfortunately, many of these air vents get painted over, plugging the air
hole. Clear the air hole in the top of the vent with a small wire or sewing
needle. If you’re still worried about the air vents working, consult a
hot water/steam heat specialist. Replacing these vents costs $16 to $20 per
radiator.
Temperature-sensitive wiring
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Click Image to enlarge.
Q
When I was
installing a light fixture recently, I noticed a warning that it should be
attached to electrical wires rated for 90 degrees Celsius. An electrician told
me that my wires are rated to only 60 degrees C. What does this mean and how
can I safely use this light fixture?
C. Humphreys, Bethesda, MD
A Light manufacturers put that warning on many
types of ceiling or wall-hugging light fixtures (see photo). That’s because these fixtures
can trap enough heat inside the fixture to destroy the insulation on wires that
aren’t rated for 90 degrees C. Once the insulation is gone, arcing can
take place and the wiring becomes a very serious fire hazard. So, you have only
two choices: Have the wiring replaced or choose a fixture that doesn’t
require 90-degree wire.
To figure out whether you have 90-degree rated wire, look
at the cable jacket or wire insulation. If you have non-metallic sheathed cable (one brand is Romex), you’re in good shape if it has the letters NM-B or
UF-B printed on the casing. If your wiring is fed through conduit, look on the
wire insulation for the letters THHN or THWN-2. The insulation of wire with a
90-degree rating is usually glossy, but you should rely on the printing to be
sure. If these clues don’t help you, either call an electrician or choose
another fixture.
Should drywall be glued?
Q
Someone told
me that gluing drywall to the frame is good insurance against nail pops. But
how can I glue the drywall on the exterior wall when I have to use a plastic
sheet for a vapor barrier?
Grant Crawford, via E-mail
A You can’t. Leave the vapor barrier in
place and attach the drywall with drywall screws. Ultimately, having a vapor
barrier is more important than any concern about nail pops.
Even though you can experience some popping with drywall
screws, the chances are far less than with nails. Further, if you do have pops
with screws, it’s usually because the screw was driven too deeply and the
head broke through the paper surface of the drywall. You can still glue and
nail the interior walls, but you’ll probably save time and have just as
much success if you skip the glue entirely and use screws on the whole
project.
Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND
Photography • MIKE KRIVIT and
BILL ZUEHLKE
