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1. Rip 24-in.-wide shelves and 23-in.-wide aprons from
each 3/4-in. sheet of plywood. Use a factory edge
as a straightedge guide.
Click Image to enlarge.
2. Snap a chalk line to mark the top of the apron and then
mark the stud locations. Hold the plywood apron even with
the line and nail them with 16d finish nails, four to each stud.
Cut and mount the braces
Cut the triangular braces from 20-in.
squares (Photo 3). You can cut the diagonal
freehand because the trim will hide
minor cutting flaws. Use two 1-3/8-in.-
wide spacers to center and support the
brace while you’re screwing the 1x4 brace
cleat to the back side (Photo 4). Drill
1/8-in. pilot holes into both pieces and
countersink holes in the cleats to prevent
splitting. Use three 2-1/2-in. screws, one
about 2 in. in from each end and one
more centered. For the best appearance,
run the wood grain the same direction on
each brace.
Drill four pilot holes in the cleats, two 1-1/2 in. from the top and two more 3 in. up from the bottom. Then screw each brace assembly to the apron (Photo 5). Use finish washers under the screws for a polished look. Position them directly over each apron seam and then place one more in the center so no shelf span is more than 4 ft. Make sure they’re flush and square with the top of the apron.When shelving turns a corner, center a brace exactly 24 in. from one wall (Figure B). This brace will support the front edge of the shelf on the adjoining wall as well as a shelf end.
3. Rip 20-in.-wide lengths of plywood and cut them into 20-in.
squares. Draw a diagonal line and cut the triangular braces.
Use a sharp blade to minimize splintering.
Click Image to enlarge.
4. Rest the braces on 1-3/8-in.-thick spacer blocks, then
mark the center of each 1x4 cleat. Predrill 1/8-in. holes
and screw them together with three 2-1/2-in. screws.
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