How To Build a Cedar and Glass Deck Railing (page 2 of 2)

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Set the Posts First

If decking hangs out past the rim joists, mark the post locations and cut back overhanging decking with a jigsaw so each 4x4 post will attach flush to the joist. Then place posts on sawhorses and cut each 47 in. long. Use a square as a guide for straight cuts. Then cut a 1-in. notch in the lower end of each post. Set your circular saw to cut 1 in. deep and crosscut the post as shown. Then place a wood chisel between cuts and snap off the pieces. Shave the cut area smooth with your chisel. To notch a corner post, cut a 1-in. deep saw kerf in each side. Then trim the notch with a sharp chisel.

Set your circular saw at 45 degrees and cut a bevel 3/4 in. from the end. Center 3/8-in. bolt holes 2 in. and 6 in. from the bottom of the post. For corner posts, a carriage bolt won’t work, so use a pair of 3/8-in. lag screws. Position one on each side so they enter the rim joist, and predrill with a 1/4-in. bit.

Now you’re ready to attach each post to the rim joist. Place the post upright in the notched decking and drive the 3-in. deck screws inside the upper 1/2-in. deep recess to hold the post in place. Plumb the post side-to-side and front-to-back at this point, then add the lower screw. These screw-heads will be hidden by the carriage bolt head. The screws allow flexibility when assembling the rail. But the rail won’t be strong and safe until you fasten the bolts later.

Attach Top And Bottom Rails
We designed the framework for the glass railing and the cedar spindle railing to be identical. Measure between each pair of posts (at the decking level) and use this length for both top and bottom 2x4 rails, and top and bottom 1x3 plates. (Note: if you can’t buy cedar 1x3s, rip 1x6s in half.)

If rails meet posts at 45 degrees, keep the inside edge of the rail flush with the inside corner of the post. Cut off the outside edge of the rail so it’s flush with the post.

Cut the rails and plates and assemble the framework by toe-screwing the bottom rails into the posts using two 3-in. deck screws. Predrill holes first (for both rails) using a 1/8-in. bit to prevent splitting. Use a scrap 2x4 spacer on edge as shown. Next, mark the posts at 31 in. from the top of the bottom rail and clamp a stop block at that mark. Push the top rail up against it and fasten it with a pair of 3-in. screws.

Now that the rails are installed and the posts are plumb, drive a long 3/8-in. drill bit through the posts and joists. Then install the carriage bolts (and lag screws on corner posts) and tighten.

Assemble the Cedar Spindle Ladder
Next, install a 3/8-in. corner round-over bit in your router and round off the two edges of the best side of all 1x3 plates. You’ll have to move the clamps to complete each end. Then figure the exact length of the cedar spindles and cut them. In most cases, they’ll be 28 in. long (for a 36-in.-high top railing), but they might vary depending on the thickness of your 1x3 plates and 2x4s.

Now, set up your ladder building section as shown. Lay 1/2-in.-thick spacer boards under the 2x2 spindles to center the spindles on the 1x3 plates. Make sure the routed edge of both plates faces inward. To get a uniform spindle pattern from section to section, center your 2x4 spacer board on the top and bottom plates, then add the spindles, working in both directions. The way the pattern meets the post will vary with the length of the sections. Be sure to leave no gap wider than 4 in.

Use one 2-in. stainless steel screw per spindle, placed slightly off-center to leave room for a nail. Use the same 2x4 spacer board, on edge, to achieve the 1-1/2 in. spacing for the next spindles. Tip: Flip the spacer board end for end as you add spindles to balance any irregularities.

After you attach all the spindles, stand the ladder up and add a 2-in. galvanized finish nail to each spindle so it won’t rotate. Flip it over and repeat.

Finally, slide the assembled ladder between the top and bottom rails. Screw it into the top and bottom rails, using 2-in. stainless steel screws, spacing the screws about every foot.

Assemble the Glass Railing
First, rip the 1x3 plates in half as shown, add construction adhesive to the outside pieces only and nail them to the top and bottom rails. Use the finish nailer to drive a 2-in. galvanized nail every 6 in.

Take a rag and wipe the bottom rail clean along the plate. Now place 3/8-in. self-adhesive vinyl bumpers on the bottom rail against the plate every 18 in. as shown. The glass will rest on the bumpers. Next drill a 3/8-in. hole on each side of all bumpers, through the bottom rail, so water won’t collect where the glass and bottom rail meet. Then clean off all wood shavings.

Next, place the glass on top of the bumpers, center it and press it tight against both top and bottom plates. While an assistant holds the glass, place the top plate against the glass under the top rail and nail it carefully, making sure the nailer and nails don’t touch the glass. Then attach the bottom plate.

The finishing touch is selecting the post caps that rest on top of the posts. Home centers usually carry a few styles. We used an Internet retailer that carries a broad line of post caps (see Buyer’s Guide).

Buyer’s Guide

Surface Gard vinyl bumpers, No. 9964S, (purchased at Home Depot), Shepherd Hardware Products, (269) 756-3830.
Post caps, Hoover Fence, (330) 358-2335. www.hooverfence.net.