How to Build a Home Office-Installation
Set the wall cabinets onto the corkboard frame. Flush the left-hand cabinet to the end of the corkboard frame. Adjust the right-hand cabinet into the corner to make the space between the cabinets conform to the length of the shelves. The corner cabinet can sit a bit away from the side wall.
Drive screws through the cabinet backs into studs. The screws should be long enough to penetrate 1-1/2 in. into the studs.
Mark the shelf cleat locations on the wall. Continue these lines onto the cabinet sides. Use a carpenter’s square to make sure these lines are also level. Drill clearance holes and screw the 1x2 shelf cleats to each stud with 2-1/2 in. screws.
Draw a layout line on the inside of the cabinet. Make sure it follows the center of the shelf. Drill clearance holes, hold the shelf in place and drive three 2-in. screws to fasten the two shelves.
Miter-cut the two 3/4-in. x 1-1/2 in. light valance pieces, and then clamp them 1-1/2 in. back from the front and side of the cabinets.
Drill clearance holes through the edge of the light valance spaced 2 ft. apart. Drive 2-in. screws, making sure to countersink the screwheads.
Lay the cap shelf on the cabinets and fasten with screws driven from inside the cabinets.
Install the Base Cabinets and Counter TopSet the left base cabinet flush with the end of the cord trough. Adjust the feet or shim under the cabinet to level it and make it flush with the trough. Footed cabinets are ideal if your floor is carpeted. Drive two screws through the cabinet back into the trough.
Clamp the two right-side cabinets together, then drive 1-1/4 in. screws to make a tight joint. Push the cabinets into the corner and against the baseboard; fasten to the cord trough with several 1-1/2 in. screws.
Cut a square notch in the end panel to clear the baseboard. Fasten this panel with screws driven from inside the cabinet.
Buy a power strip with surge protection and mount it to the wall below the cord trough. All your equipment and lights plug into this strip.
Set the top and the trough covers in place on the base cabinets. Leave a small gap between the trough covers and the corkboard frame so the covers don’t get jammed in and become difficult to lift out. Clamp the top to the cabinets, remove the trough covers, then fasten with screws driven from inside the cabinets. Be sure the screws aren’t too long or else you’ll have a hole in your desktop. Set the cordtrough covers in place.
Cut the pieces for the swing-out desk legs. A table saw is a must to make the beveled cuts, so if necessary, have a cabinetmaker do this for you. Use carpenter’s glue and clamps to assemble the legs. Attach them to the desktop using 1-1/2 in. angle irons. Lay out the pivot hole and drill a 1/2-in. hole all the way through the top. Locate and install the T-nut. Roll the top into position and then slide the sleeve, bolt and washer through the pivot hole. Thread and tighten firmly with a wrench.
Buyer’s GuideCabinets Techline, (952) 927-7373. www.techlineusa.com
- Two 16” wide x 26” high Drawer File Bases 24” deep. AC1626DFB24-SU. $780 for both
- Two 16” wide Finished Laminate Bases 24” deep. AC16FLB24. $78 for both
- One 32” wide x 26” high Cabinet 24” deep. AC3226CAB24-SU. $214
- One 32” wide Finished Laminate Base 24” deep. AC32FLB24. $47
- One 30” End Support Panel AC3028EPNL. $97
- Two 24” wide x 26” high Storage Cabinets 14” deep. AC2426SC14-SU. $468 for both
Miscellaneous Hardware
Rockler Woodworking, (800) 233-9359. www.rockler.com
- 75mm twin casters, No. 34387, $3.99 each
- 2-1/4” maple cord grommets, No. 14598, $4.99 each
- 24” x 48” x 5/32” cork sheeting, No. 15108, $13 each
- Screw-on T-nut, No. 68387, $6.79
- Cherry veneer screw caps, No. 38164, $3.59. (Also available in white, oak and walnut)



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