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- Overview and Preparation
- Step-by-Step Pictures and Instructions for How to Build a Message Center
- Shopping List
It has an erasable calendar for busy schedules and immediate messages; plenty of cork for photos, invitations, coupons and permission slips; a pull-down door with a notepad for short messages and shopping lists; and storage for a good supply of pens, postage stamps, tissue and other items that usually clutter nearby table tops. It also has hooks for keys and shallow bins for magazines, mail, dog leashes, address books and homework (completed, no doubt!). We designed this cabinet to slip back into the wall between empty stud spaces, so you won’t bump it as you go by and knock stuff off the board. And the closed doors keep most of the clutter out of sight.
The message center fits inside a standard interior wall, which is usually constructed of 2x4s spaced 16 in. on center, with 14-1/2 in. of space between studs. Exterior walls won’t work because they have insulation in them. And some interior walls won’t work either, if they have heating ducts, pipes and wiring running through them. (Later we’ll tell you how to check them.) You can easily adapt this project to any size and as many open cavities as you want. The basic concept is simple—just cut a hole in the drywall, insert a wooden box, and add trim to it.
We used a table saw, a miter saw and a pneumatic brad nailer for this project, in addition to standard hand tools, but you could also build the project with just a circular saw (with a cutting guide for straight cuts) and a drill. The materials cost $90, including hinges.
Detective Work Comes
First
Before cutting into the wall, try to get an idea of
what’s concealed inside it. Find stud locations with a stud finder or by tapping on the wall and listening for variations in
tone. Be aware that blank walls can conceal a wide variety of framing—especially in older houses.Note: Locating studs in old plaster walls may require a more
sensitive, higher-priced stud finder. If you absolutely can’t find the studs, try removing a section of baseboard and opening
the wall where you can hide the hole. Or tap a finish nail through the wall until you hit a stud, then measure over about 16
in. and tap the nail through again to find the next stud.
Once you’ve located studs, check both sides of the wall and the rooms above and below for heat registers, plumbing and electrical fixtures. If you find potential obstructions on adjacent floors, use an outside wall for a reference point to estimate if it’ll obstruct your cabinet. Even if the location looks clear, you never know what’s inside, so cut small holes in both cavities and double-check for obstructions. Cutting the hole with a utility knife is difficult, but it’s safer than using a saw because you can keep the cuts shallow and away from any electrical wires. If you find obstructions, don’t despair. Half of our message center is only 3/4 in. deep (not including trim). It may fit over the obstructions without any problem. Another option is to make the box shallower. You may also be able to extend wires around the boxes by rewiring, but consult an electrician or electrical inspector first.
We used a no-mortise, partial wrap-around hinge for the upper doors (item No. 49393; $6 per pair) and a self-closing surface-mounted hinge with a 90-degree stop for the drop-down desk (item No. 66639; $8 each). Both are available from Rockler Woodworking, www.rockler.com or (800) 279-4441.
Shopping ListOne 4' x 4' x 1/2" birch plywood (A, B, C)
One 2' x 4' x 3/4" birch plywood (K, L)
Two 1/2" x 3/4" x 8' pine (A1, B1, J)
One 3/4" x 3/4" x 4' pine (D)
One 1x4 x 6' pine (E)
One 1x3 x 4' pine; two 1x3 x 8' pine (F, G)
One 1x2 x 6' (H)
1" brads
1-1/2" brads
2-1/2" finish nails
Wood glue
Cutting List|
KEY |
PCS. |
SIZE & DESCRIPTION |
|
A |
2 |
3-1/2" x 47-7/8" x 1/2" birch plywood (sides for deep box) |
|
B |
2 |
3-1/2" x 13-1/4" x 1/2" birch plywood (top and bottom for deep box) |
|
A1 |
2 |
1/2" x 3/4" x 47-7/8" pine (sides for shallow box) |
|
B1 |
2 |
1/2" x 3/4" x 13-1/4" pine (top and bottom for shallow box) |
|
C |
2 |
14-1/4" x 45-7/8" x 1/2" birch plywood (backs for both boxes) |
|
D |
4 |
3/4" x 3/4" x 10" pine (nailers for top and bottom trim F) |
|
E |
4 |
3/4" x 3-1/2" x 13-1/4" pine (shelves) |
|
F |
2 |
3/4" x 2-1/2" x 34-1/8" pine (top and bottom trim) |
|
G |
3 |
3/4" x 2-1/2" x 44-3/8" pine (center and side trim) |
|
H |
2 |
3/4" x 1-1/2" x 35-1/8" pine (top and bottom sill) |
|
J |
2 |
1/2" x 3/4" x 34-1/8" pine (bottom crossbars) |
|
K |
1 |
3/4" x 13-1/8" x 20-1/8" birch plywood (upper door) |
|
L |
1 |
3/4" x 13-1/8" x 12-1/4" birch plywood (lower door) |
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