How to Build a Patio Privacy Screen (page 2 of 3)

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How to Build a Patio Privacy Screen-Guidelines

You May Need a Permit
Chances are remote that you’ll need a building permit, but check with the building department to make sure. If you need a fence permit, it’ll include a list of fence rules that your screen has to follow. If you live in a development that has building covenants, submit plans, placement information and color selections to the architectural review committee. Showing it the photos and drawings in this article along with information on the specific spot for your screen should be adequate. Don’t skip this step or you may end up restaining or even tearing down your new screen.

Be sure to call to have the underground cables and gas lines marked before you dig any postholes. Most states have a single toll-free number you can call to get all the utilities marked. You can ask the building department for the number, call the nationwide Dig Safely hot line at (888) 258-0808, or visit www.digsafely.com. Mark the screen’s position on the ground with spray paint or stakes before the crew comes. Call ahead of time; it generally takes two to three days to have utilities marked.

Selecting Materials
When you’re selecting your lumber for the top cap pieces, pay special attention to get sound 3/4-in. boards for the top cap pieces—no cracks, splits or large knots. When you’re bending the boards, knots or cracks may cause them to break under the stress.

Screws are the best way to put together a strong, durable screen. But read the box to make sure you select ones that are designed for decks. Other fasteners may corrode and leave ugly “bleed” marks on the wood after a short time.

Lay Out and Notch the Rails
Before you dig the postholes, lay out and notch all four horizontal rails. You’ll use the rails for positioning, spacing and anchoring the posts, and later for placing the 2x2 pickets.

Lay out the rails by measuring 6 in. from one end and then use a 2x6 block as a template to mark the first post notch. Use a 2x2 block to mark a gap, then a picket, another gap and so on for nine pickets. Mark the next post notch and then continue marking the rest of the pickets and posts. After the last notch, measure 6 more inches and cut the rail to length. Cut off the corners at 45 degrees on both ends of each board, then cut out the notches.

Dig the Holes and Set the Posts
Lay the straightest rail on the ground and shift it until you find the screen’s best position. Then drive stakes to hold it in place and to mark the postholes. Set the rail aside and then dig 3-ft. deep x 8-in. diameter postholes at each notch location and pour about 6 in. of gravel into each hole.

Build the treated wood portion of the posts first. Measure the hole depth and then cut the outer 2x6s to project about 6 in. past the top of the holes, but let the 2x4 center posts run full length. You’ll cut all the post parts to length later. Preassemble the treated posts with 3-in. deck screws. Keep the fasteners 8 in. or so below the top of the 2x6s to avoid hitting them with a saw blade when you’re trimming them to length later. Reset the guide rail and use it and a level to position and plumb the posts in each hole. After each post is positioned, hold them in place with temporary screws driven into the guide rail.