How to Build a Patio Privacy Screen (page 3 of 3)

Change Text Size

Change Text Size
|
Bookmark

Bookmark

Del.icio.us
Digg
Reddit
Facebook
StumbleUpon
TwitThis
|
Print
|
E-Mail

How to Build a Patio Privacy Screen-Installation

We don’t recommend building a higher screen, especially in high-wind areas. But lower screens are sometimes preferable if you’d like to see over the top while standing but want more privacy while seated. Build a shorter screen using the same spacing techniques we show but reduce the distance between the upper and lower rails.

The top cap for a shorter screen may require a gentler curve because it’ll be difficult to bend the wood without breaking it. Try a test bend. If you hear the wood crack or it takes too much force to make the bend, simply cut the middle posts shorter until the wood bends without trouble. If you don’t want to fuss with the bend or want to match other horizontal elements in your yard, consider just cutting off the posts and screwing on a flat top cap of solid 2x8.

Set the Posts in Dry Concrete
To avoid waiting for concrete to set up, you can fill around the posts with dry concrete mix rather than pouring wet concrete. That way, you can continue with the rest of the carpentry work and maybe even finish the project in one day. Keep the top of the dry concrete a few inches below the top of the hole. (You’ll need about two 60-lb. bags per hole.) When you’re done working for the day, simply flood the top with the garden hose and the concrete will set up overnight. Don’t worry about trying to saturate the mix. Over time, the underlying concrete will absorb enough moisture from the ground for complete curing.

Mixes that are labeled for “post,” “quick” or “fast” are the best ones to choose. But if all you can find is regular premixed concrete, that’ll work fine too.

TIP: Before you cut off the post tops, drive two screws through the 2x6s above the cut marks. They’ll hold the pieces in place so you don’t get bonked by the cutoffs.

Screw the Parts Together
You’ll be amazed at how fast the rest of the screen goes together. That’s because you’ve already cut the notches for the posts and marked the picket locations. It’s largely just a matter of screwing all of the parts together. It really helps to prefinish all the parts before laying out the rails and doing any assembly. We stained everything with two coats of solid stain before any cutting, and stained the notches and freshly cut ends before assembly for even more protection. That cuts down on painting inside crevices and cutting in, particularly if you have a two-tone color scheme like ours.

Cut off the treated 2x6s about 3 in. above grade, screw the 2x6 cedar outer posts on one side of the 2x4s, and then screw two rails to one side of the post. Level the rails and sight down them to make sure they’re straight before screwing them to the middle two posts. Then plumb and brace the two end posts in both directions. The rails should hold the center posts plumb as well, but if you have any stubborn ones, plumb and brace them, too. The dry concrete mix will let you make minor adjustments.

Cut the 2x2 picket caps to length so they fit tightly between the 2x4s. Then screwing on the 5-ft. long pickets will go fast. Just push them against the top picket cap and use the marks on the rail to guide their placement. Finally, screw on the other post parts and rails. You’ll have to fudge a bit to get the 2x6s to match the rail notches. You may have to drag an assistant away from a Simpsons episode to help you hold the 2x4 rails and wiggle them into place.

Bending the Top Cap Boards
Bend the 1x4 top cap board to simulate the top curve and to determine where to cut the posts. Center a screw on the end blocks so they can pivot while you make the bend. It’s good to have the Simpsons fan on hand for this step too. You’ll find it awkward to hold the spring-loaded 1x4 in position while reaching and scribing all four posts. Transfer the marks around to the other side of the posts with a square and then cut off the posts with a circular saw and handsaw.

Center the 1x8 top cap and screw it into each post with a pair of 2-in. deck screws. Center and screw down the 1x6 and 1x4 top caps to the posts, adding screws wherever gaps appear.

If you have a deck that makes private gatherings feel like neighborhood events, don’t fret. This privacy screen adapts easily to most decks. That’s because most decks have a single rim joist that’s the same thickness as the center 2x4 of the post. In most cases, you can easily remove an existing rail, notch the decking and straddle the rim joist with the outer 2x6 of each post. Brace the rim joist with blocking to at least the second and third joists back to stiffen it. Lag-screwing the end posts to an existing rail and the house will also greatly stabilize the screen.

Deck sizes vary widely, so to fill a side of a deck with a privacy screen, you’ll need to work out the number and spacing of posts as well as the finished height on your own. But a 7-ft. tall screen may look too high on a smallish deck. A shorter height of 5 or 6 ft. will still give you reasonable privacy, especially when you’re sitting at a table. Keep post spacing between 3 and 4 ft. if possible.