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Set the miter
gauge perfectly
square to the
blade
The key to accurate right-angle
cuts is to square up the miter
gauge to the saw blade. Don’t trust the
angle indicators on the gauge; they’re
far too sloppy. Instead, go to an art supply
or woodworking store and buy a 45-
degree drafting triangle. Set one side
against the blade and align the gauge to
the other side. Be sure the
side of the triangle against the blade
falls between the teeth tight to the blade
“plate.” For greater accuracy, have the
blade cranked all the way up so you’re
squaring to the widest part of the blade.
Choose a straight 1x2 or 1x3 board at least 12 in. long for the extension fence. Sometimes you’ll need a longer fence, but more on this later. Screw the fence to the miter gauge with the right side projecting a few inches past the saw blade. All miter gauges have a pair of screw holes or slots for this purpose. Choose screws short enough so they don’t penetrate all the way through the wood.
You’ll find that even tiny adjustments have a big effect.
TIP: Raise the blade all the way and hold a combination square vertically against the blade and the saw table. Adjust the blade tilt as necessary. Don’t trust the saw’s tilt angle indicator. Ours was off by two full degrees.
Make precise square cuts
To make precise square cuts, start by rough-cutting long
boards a few inches longer than the final length, with either
a circular or a miter saw. (Boards longer than 4 ft. are awkward
to cut on a table saw.) Then raise or lower the blade so it’s about
1/8 in. higher than the board’s thickness. Position the factory
end of the board just past the end of the extension fence so the
blade will just shave it, and then start the saw. Always recut factory ends; they’re rarely perfectly square. Hold the board snug
against the fence and slowly push it through the blade.After each
cut, slide the board away from the blade and turn off the saw
before you remove cutoff pieces.
Now mark the exact length at the other end and align that mark with the end of the extension fence. Then make the final cut.
Make accurate 45-degree miter cuts
Perfect miters are almost as easy as
crosscuts. Start by setting the miter
gauge to 45 degrees using
the techniques we showed above.
Mount an extension fence, moving it
toward the blade far enough to cut
the end at a 45-degree angle. Then make the fine cuts on your
material. Hold your material very
tight; the saw blade will try to pull it off
line. In general, it’s best to make all your
miter cuts first, and then any square cuts
at the opposite end, where it’s easier to be
accurate.
For the kind of extreme accuracy needed for complete squares such as picture frames, cut two test boards, push the miters tightly together and check the assembly with a drafting square. If it’s not perfect, adjust the miter gauge and repeat. Again, it only takes very small adjustments to make big differences.
Cut long boards with support
Any board much over 4 ft. long is tougher to cut accurately
because the table on the saw will no longer support it. As
you struggle to keep it flat on the table, it often binds in the blade.
Clamp a piece of plywood or closet shelving (the slippery edge helps the wood slide) to the top of a sawhorse. To adjust the height of the support board, hold a level or a straightedge flat to the table until the board is even with the table top. Resist the temptation to have a buddy support the other end while you push it through the blade. That’s dangerous. Avoid that dicey human element.
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