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About This Project
It’s hard to beat a crackling wood fire on a chilly night. But modern gas fireplaces come pretty close, and without the drawbacks of wood. Not only does gas burn much cleaner, making it a better choice for the environment, but there are no messy logs to carry through the house or ashes to clean out. And lighting the fire is as simple as flicking a switch or turning a valve.
In this article, we’ll show you how to install a direct-vent gas fireplace and run the combination intake and exhaust vent directly through the exterior wall. Then we’ll show you how to frame, drywall and texture the surround shown here. The surround is a fanciful combination of wood, drywall and special texturing. The design itself is traditional, but you can freely modify it. For fire safety, however, make sure to heed the manufacturer’s directions on clearances for combustibles.
A direct-vent gas fireplace doesn’t need a chimney. Rather, you can run a special vent to the outside through an exterior wall. This process is simple and fire-safe as long as you follow the manufacturer’s directions. Be sure to read them carefully, because they might differ slightly from what we show here.
If you have some carpentry and drywalling experience, you shouldn’t have any trouble finishing this project. The fireplace will take you about a day to install.
Then plan to spend an entire weekend framing and installing drywall and a few hours each day for the rest of the week troweling on additional coats of joint compound. The following weekend you can prime the walls and apply the texture.
The direct-vent fireplace and vent parts we purchased cost us about $1,800. For $650 more, our fireplace dealer would have installed the fireplace, not including the gas and electric hookups or any interior finishing. The materials for the wood framing, drywall and stucco coating cost an additional $175. Hire a plumber to run the gas line during the framing process and connect it to the fireplace ($250 to $500).
In addition to a basic set of hand tools, you’ll need a circular saw and a drill. A power miter box is handy but not necessary for cutting the angles on the framing parts. You’ll need a tin snips for cutting the metal corner bead, a collection of taping knives (2-in., 4-in., 6-in. and 12-in.) and a mud pan for applying the joint compound and texture.
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