How to Install a New Vent Hood and Kitchen Backsplash (page 2 of 3)

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Installation

Plan Your Tile Layout
The tile you choose and the dimensions of your backsplash area will dictate your layout. Here are a few suggestions to get your layout to work:

Sketch your backsplash design on graph paper and figure the amount of tile you need. Buy an extra 10 percent to make up for cutoffs and any goofs you might make while cutting.
Once you get your tile, lay out a section of it complete with spacers to see the amount of coverage you’ll get with your tile.
Measure the backsplash area again from side to side and bottom to top to make sure your pattern will work. You want to avoid having pieces smaller than an inch at the top and the ends. Small pieces are difficult to cut and make the project look amateurish.
You may want to shift the pattern to avoid complicated cuts around electrical outlets and other obstructions.
Remember to allow space for a caulk joint at inside corners; this can affect the size of pieces as well.

Once you have your layout, transfer guidelines onto the wall with your level and square. The lines will act as a general guide, so don’t plot every tile.

Mix the Mortar to a Toothpaste Consistency
We chose thin-set mortar rather than a mastic adhesive because thin-set is heat resistant and forms an excellent bond. It’s very easy to mix: Just add water and an acrylic-bonding agent in equal amounts to the powder until you get a smooth mix the consistency of toothpaste. The bonding agent improves the durability and flexibility of the mortar. Get it from your tile supplier. When the mixture is free of lumps, let it stand for about 10 minutes to allow the chemical reaction to take place.

Spread the mortar onto the wall with your notched trowel. We chose a 1/4-in. notched trowel for our tile. Ask your tile supplier what will work best for the tile you chose. In addition to a full-size trowel, I like to use a smaller version (shown below) for backsplashes because it’s easier for me to handle in tight spaces.

Push Your Tile Into the Mortar
Following your layout lines, start pushing your tile into the mortar one piece at a time. Don’t spread too much mortar onto the wall and get ahead of yourself. The mortar will start to dry and reduce the adhesion. Generally it’s best to spread the adhesive for only about 10 pieces of tile until you get the hang of it and can increase your speed. If the mortar skins over and dries, scrape it off and apply fresh mortar.

If you’re setting bisque tile, give each tile a quick dunk in a pail of water before setting it into the mortar. Bisque tile (usually a terra cotta color on the backside) is highly porous and will pull too much water out of the mortar, causing it to dry too quickly and form a weak bond. If you’re using porcelain or stone tile, just press it into the mortar without dunking.

To keep the caulk joint small (about 1/16 in.), use thin tile shims at the countertop seam with the first course. I used pieces of thin cardboard cut from the back of a tablet, but thin shims are available from your tile supplier. Be fussy with the first row of tile. Check the tops with your level to make sure the tiles are perfectly aligned.

Insert the tile spacers as you go to keep the tiles from sagging into each other, and don’t worry about small globs of mortar oozing between the tiles. You can always go back a few hours later and knock them loose with a putty knife or chisel. Continue spreading mortar, cutting the end pieces and adding courses.

Use a Wet Saw to Cut Tile Around Electrical Boxes
Shut the power off to your backsplash receptacles and unscrew and pull out the devices so they won’t get in your way as you measure and cut around them. There’s no real trick here other than measuring and marking the tile so it’s even with the edges of the box. First mark the cutout on your tile with a fine-tip permanent marker so the lines won’t wash away on the wet saw.When cutting pieces to fit into the corners, ease the sharp edges of the cuts with a tile stone ($5 at your tile supplier).

Note: In most cases, your tile and mortar will protrude past the electrical boxes 1/4 in. or more, so you’ll need to add box extenders to each receptacle and switch box once the tiling and grouting are complete. Both metal and plastic box extenders are available at home centers. I prefer the plastic type because it’s easier to trim to fit.

Building the Shelf
We made our shelf above the stove by applying tile to 1/2- in. plywood. We chose the length so it would fit nicely above the stove once the wall was tiled on both sides. The apron section of the shelf replaces the drywall underneath and is screwed directly to the studs and at the corners. To make the bottom of the shelf easier to tile, tile it first, let the mortar set overnight and install the shelf the next day. If you choose narrower or wider shelf trim, you may need to change the thickness of the plywood.

Cleanup Before Grouting Is Crucial
Once the mortar has set overnight, remove the spacers and go back with a putty or utility knife and clean the clumps of oozing mortar from the tile and spaces between. Also clean out the excess mortar under the first course of tile at the countertops to leave space for caulk. Once the backsplash is cleaned off, thoroughly vacuum the entire shelf and countertop before grouting. If you fail to get all the excess mortar scraped away, the grout will be discolored at those spots.