Grouting and Buyer's Guide
Push the Grout Into the Spaces
Mixing grout is similar to mixing thin-set mortar. Follow
the manufacturer’s instructions. Some types of grout need an acrylic
additive; others don’t. Mix just what you can apply in about 20 minutes
so it doesn’t dry out. Usually about a quart of grout (mixed) works best.
Acrylic additives shouldn’t be used with some natural-stone tile to avoid
staining the stone, so check with your tile supplier.
Push the grout into the spaces between the tiles with a grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tile and push firmly across the tile surfaces. For stubborn, hard-to-get-at spots in corners, you may need to push it in with your fingers(wear rubber gloves). Use the float to wipe away any excess grout and then scrape it back into your bucket. Divide the project into manageable chunks. You don’t need to grout the whole project at one time.
After about 15 minutes or so, you should start sponging the tile surface to remove the grout. I like to use two 5-gallon buckets of water and wring out the sponge in one of the buckets and have a relatively clean water rinse in the other bucket. Be sure to wring out the sponge well so you won’t add a lot of water to the grout as it sets. Too much water will weaken the grout mixture. Wipe the surface at least three times and check for haze once it dries. With shiny glazed tiles, you can always go back and wipe the haze off with a clean cotton cloth once the grout is set, but stone or porous tile must be wiped clean before the grout sets.
Note: If you choose stone or tile with a dull finish, you may need to seal it before grouting. This keeps the grout from being absorbed into the tile and forming a stubborn haze.
TIP: Never pour excess mortar or grout down your drain. You’ll have a huge plumbing bill and a lot of headaches if it hardens down there. Just throw the excess mortar into the trash and clean the bucket with a stiff brush. For your rinse buckets, let the grout or mortar settle to the bottom, pour off the water at the top and scoop the thick waste at the bottom into the trash.
Caulk the Seam Between the Tile and the Countertop
Once the grout has set for a couple of hours, remove the
protective paper and tape from the countertops. Clean the countertop seam with
a knife and then vacuum the bits of dried grout. Caulk the seam with a
siliconized latex caulk and wipe the excess away with a clean cloth to get a
small profile joint. You may need to wipe several times with a damp cloth to
get the desired effect.
Install the New Range Hood
Follow the instructions that come with your new range hood.
You may need special ducting reducers or enlargers to adapt the hood to your
ducting. Be sure to anchor it firmly to the wall with wall anchors and follow
the wiring diagrams. Most chimney-style hoods have a sleeve at the top that is
adjustable to a variety of heights. We installed our hood so the bottom is 29 in. above the
cooktop.
Buyer’s Guide
Our tile was purchased at The Tile Shop, (800) 433- 2939,
www.tileshopsuperstore.com. The field tile is Tiffany Crackled Biscuit (No.
450060) and the trim tile is marble in cream and green (No.
492835).
The range hood is made by Broan (No. RM503004). Check www.broan.com or call (800) 558- 1711 for a dealer in your area. The 30-in. range is made by Wolf (No. R304). Check www.wolfappliance.com for a dealer in your area.



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