How To Install a Quiet Bathroom Fan (page 2 of 3)

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Apply the Basics We Show Here No Matter Where Your Fan is Located

The bath fan we’re replacing is fairly typical. It’s located in a ceiling with an accessible unfinished attic above. The fan is properly wired and ducted with 3-in. uninsulated ductwork to the roof. If your old fan unit has additional features like a light or heater that operates off a second switch, your electrical wiring will be more complex. If the rewiring confuses you, consult a licensed electrician to work out the details.

If you have a second floor above the fan, measure the height of the space available. The new, quieter fans are taller than the old ones, at least 7-1/2 in. tall. While it should fit into typical floor joist space, check the fan dimensions to make sure.

The materials
Buy these materials in advance:

The new fan. (See “Shopping for a Quiet Fan”)
4 to 8 linear ft. of 4-in. flexible insulated ductwork. Home centers stock this only in 25-ft. lengths. Some heating equipment companies sell it by the foot. (Call first.) Another option is 4-in. rigid aluminum duct with an insulated sleeve.
One 4-in. dia. aluminum elbow
One 2-ft. long section of 4-in. dia. aluminum straight ductwork
One 4-in. roof vent cap (sometimes you can reuse the old one)
Two 6-in. adjustable metal duct clamps
One dozen 3/8-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws
One dozen 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws
One dozen 1-in. drywall screws
One dozen 3/4-in. roofing nails
Two electrical staples
One tube of roofing cement
One tube of caulk. Silicone works well. We used tub-and-tile caulk, which comes in an easy-to-use squeeze tube.
Plywood, approximately 2 x 3 ft., for use in the attic
Gloves, dust mask, goggles.

If you don’t have an attic above, as we show, you’ll have to do the entire installation from below. This means you’ll have to cut open the ceiling a bit (and patch it later!) to get the fan in and run duct-work to a wall vent cap. The connections will be the same as we show in the photo series. However, changing to a larger wall vent cap can be more complex if you have brick, stucco or vinyl siding rather than wood. If you’re unsure how to proceed, check with a siding specialist for advice.

How to Do the Job With the Fewest Trips to the Attic
Before you start, you’ll have to turn off the electricity to the fan at the main panel. With the fan running, flip circuit breakers or loosen fuses until it stops.

Put on your safety goggles. As you pull down and snap off the old grille, watch out for falling debris! You’d be amazed at how much crud can spill out. Then unplug the motor and remove it from the housing. It will be held with clips or screws. Wear gloves. The edges may be sharp.

The electrical connections are usually in a small splice box. Check the wires for power with a voltage tester to make sure it’s off. Then disconnect them.

Next you have to go up to the attic. You need a power drill, screw-driver, utility knife, metal snips, wire cutter, wire stripper and a work light. To avoid extra trips, carry all the tools with you in a bucket.

To make it easier to work in the attic, find a small piece of plywood to kneel or lie on—approximately 2 x 3 ft. In the summer, work in the morning. Attics get hot on warm days.

Push the insulation back from the old fan housing and remove the housing. Most older fans will be mounted directly to a joist. The screws might be hard to remove. A power drill simplifies this task.

Now go back down to the bathroom. Hold the base of the new fan housing to the ceiling and draw the new opening size. Most new, quiet fans are larger than the old fans. If not, you’ll have to patch the ceiling with drywall.