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- Overview and Preparation
- Step-by-Step Pictures and Instructions: How to Install Drywall
- See More Wall Projects
Follow these tricks for a faster, trouble-free installation.
Adjust the Screw Gun Tip for Accurate Depth
Don’t be tempted to use your cordless screwdriver or regular drill to drive drywall screws. Neither will give you the precise depth control you need for trouble-free fastening. Use a screw gun instead. They’re available for $60 to $100 at home centers and tool retailers, so it’s hardly worth renting one for $35 a day.
Practice driving screws on a scrap of drywall or in a closet to get the hang of it before tackling your room. Start by placing a screw on the magnetic driver tip. Then line up the screw with the center of the framing and squeeze the trigger to bring the driver up to speed. After the motor is running full speed, press straight in and don’t release the pressure until the clutch starts to ratchet. You’ll know by the clattering sound it makes.
Make Sure the Drywall Is Tight
Crooked studs or puffed-out insulation can prevent the drywall from lying tightly against the studs. If the gap is too large, the screwhead will pop through rather than pulling the drywall tight.
Tack With Nails, but Fasten With Screws
Buy 1-1/4 in. coarse-thread drywall screws to attach 3/8-in., 1/2-in. and 5/8-in. drywall to wood framing. Use fine-thread screws to attach drywall to steel studs. Place screws 12 in. apart where the ends or edges of sheets butt at framing members, and along each framing member in the center of the sheet. Don’t use longer screws unless you’re screwing through soft material like foam insulation into the underlying framing. The screws should only penetrate the wood 5/8 to 3/4 in. Any deeper and they’ll be prone to popping later.
Provide Solid Backing on Edges Before Hanging the Sheet
Inspect inside corners where walls intersect and along the top of walls where they meet the ceiling. The goal is to provide at least 3/4 in. of exposed framing to drive screws into. If you can’t swing a hammer in tight spots, screw in blocking with 3-in. screws. Keep a few lumber scraps handy so you can add backing on the fly if necessary.
Mark the Framing
It’s frustrating to have to guess where framing members are after they’re covered with drywall. Avoid this hassle by marking all the framing members before you start hanging the drywall. Mark the center of each ceiling framing member on the top plate of the walls. After you hang the ceiling drywall, mark the wall stud centers on the ceiling drywall and on the floor. Use a pencil when marking on drywall. Ink from markers and pens will bleed through the paint.
Remove the Screws That Missed the Framing
Even with careful preparation, you’ll occasionally miss a stud, drive a screw too deep or have trouble driving a screw deep enough. The screws don’t usually back out easily.
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