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The first step is to determine which base cabinet you’ll run the power into. To locate the position of the outlet in the base cabinet, chuck an 8-in. length of coat hanger into your drill and drill a hole alongside the outlet and through the back of the cabinet. Then mark a 12-in. square and cut an access hole directly behind the electrical box. A sharp keyhole saw works well. Make sure to keep the cut shallow to avoid hitting electrical or plumbing lines. Next screw the junction box to the back of the cabinet just below the level of the drawer. The 4 x 4 x 2-1/8 in. deep metal box we’re using is large enough to accommodate the wires shown. If your installation requires more cables, calculate the box size needed and buy a larger junction box if necessary.
Drill 1-1/8 in. holes through the cabinet sides and run 1/2-in. flex for each light or group of lights, for the switch and for the power. Allow an extra 6 in. of flex where it enters the walls. Ream the cut end of the flex to remove burrs and install flex connectors on both ends.
You may have to pull your stove away from the wall or slide your dishwasher out so you can run the flex behind them. Make sure to route it where it won’t interfere when you slide the appliances back into place. If you have an inaccessible corner, you may have to cut an access hole in the side of the cabinet in order to run the flex. Route the cable through the attic or basement if necessary to get across areas that aren’t connected by base cabinets.
Push or use a fish tape to pull the plastic-sheathed cable through the flex. Allow an extra 12 in. of cable at the junction box and several feet beyond where the cables should end. It’s better to waste a few feet of cable than to end up short.
After the cable is pulled into the flex, drill holes in the back of the base cabinet and the bottom of the wall cabinet and cut the hole for the switch. Fish the cable up to these locations. The fishing method also works for insulated walls. You’ll just have to work a little harder to hook the fish tape with the hanger. Using your saw, ream the hole through the back of the cabinet at an angle to better fit the flex. Push the end of the flex into the wall and secure the flex with straps placed every 4-1/2 ft. and within 12 in. of every hole in the cabinet and within 12 in. of the junction box.
Connect the power source to the switch and from the switch to the hot wires (black) to the lights.
Mount the Fixtures and Make Final Connections
The final step is to mount and connect the light fixtures and connect the wires in the switch box, outlet box and junction box. Double-check the wires in the outlet box with a non-contact voltage tester to make sure the power is off before making the final connections in this box.
If possible, install a dimmer in place of a regular switch. Check with the manufacturer to find out whether a regular dimmer, a magnetic dimmer or an electronic dimmer is required. Then follow the package instructions for connecting the dimmer.
When you’re through connecting the wires in the junction box according to Figure B, screw a metal cover plate to the junction box. Then close up the hole in the back of the cabinet by screwing an oversized square of 1/4-in. plywood over the opening.
Buying Undercabinet Lights
The top-of-the-line fixtures we’re installing use low-voltage xenon bulbs. The fixtures cost about $35 per linear foot, about 20 percent more than similar halogen fixtures. But the xenon bulbs last many times longer, burn cooler and don’t require special handling like halogen bulbs. Each of our fixtures has a built-in electronic transformer to power the low-voltage xenon bulbs but is powered by standard 120-volt current. Xenon bulbs are dimmable but require a special electronic dimmer ($40). Basic fluorescent fixtures are much cheaper, about $10 per ft., but usually can’t be dimmed. The wiring method we show works for any 120-volt undercabinet light.
Plan to install a continuous row of lights for the most evenly distributed light. Some types of undercabinet lights are provided with plug-in connectors to join fixtures end to end. Others, like the ones we’re using, can be joined by running wires from one fixture to the next. Wire them together according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Buyer's Guide
The following companies manufacture undercabinet light fixtures. You’ll find the ones in this article and others at local lighting retailers and on-line.
National Specialty Lighting (NSL): (800) 527-2923.
We used NSL Xenon Task Lights in this article.
ALKCO: www.alkco.com
Kichler Lighting: (888) 659-8809. www.kichler.com
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