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How to Properly Use a Roof Safety Harness (page 2 of 2)

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Installation

Buying Roof Safety Gear
Safety Harness
The harness is only one part of a personal fall arrest system. It’s called a “system” because all the components -- the harness, lanyard, rope-grab, rope and roof anchor -- are carefully engineered to work together. One brand is DBI/SALA (800-328-6146). The company sells a “roofer’s kit” through local distributors for about $300 with everything you’ll need, including 50 ft. of rope and a storage bag. You can also check at roofing suppliers (see “Roofing” in the Yellow Pages). Consider splitting the cost with friends or neighbors and sharing the kit. I don’t know a single carpenter or roofer who hasn’t had a close call on a roof, but most will readily admit they were doing something stupid at the time. Roofs are inherently dangerous places, but if you follow our suggestions and stay focused on safety, you’ll greatly reduce the chances of an accident. And with the roof brackets and personal fall arrest system in place, if you do slip, at least you’ll live to tell about it.

Roof Brackets
Roof brackets are available at hardware stores, lumberyards, roofing suppliers and home centers for $5 to $10 each. Buy enough 90-degree brackets to place one bracket every 4 ft. along the edge of the roof below where you’ll be working. Use brackets designed to hold a 2x6. Larger planks are too hard to step over when you’re getting onto the roof. You’ll want additional rows of brackets and planks about 8 ft. apart across the roof to rest supplies on and provide secure footing.

Buy the best 2x6s you can find. Make sure the knots are small (under 1 in. diameter) and don’t go all the way through the board.

Build a "Slide Guard" With Roof Brackets and 2x6s as a First Line of Defense
Once you’re safely up to the roof, you’ll want to set up roof brackets and planks all along the eave. These serve a dual purpose. They allow you a safe place to step onto and rest tools and materials. And they also act as a slide guard that will help prevent you from falling off the edge of the roof if you lose your footing higher up and slide down.

Each roof bracket should have a label on it with complete instructions. Read and follow them carefully.

First locate a truss or rafter -- the roof brackets must be nailed through the sheathing and into these structural members. The exposed rafter tails on our roof made this easy. If you’re not so lucky, listen and feel for a solid spot as you tap across the roof with a hammer. When you locate solid wood, carefully slide the blade of a pry bar under the shingle to separate it from the shingle underneath, and gently bend the tab up. Then you can place the nails where they’ll be covered by the shingle. If you feel the nail miss the rafter (it will penetrate easily), pull it out and put a dab of caulk or plastic roofing cement on the hole to seal it. Then move the nail over an inch and try again.

Rafters in older homes are usually 16 in. apart, while trusses in newer homes are usually 24 in. apart. Both have 1-1/2 in. of nailing surface. Measure from the first bracket to find more rafters or trusses. Complete the slide guard by adding the 2x6 plank. Now you can safely work your way up the roof by adding more brackets and planks about every 8 ft.

When you’re done on the roof, remove the brackets and planks in the opposite order, starting at the top and working down.

You Can’t Just Tie a Rope to Your Belt
On low-pitched roofs where footing is no problem and the eaves are less than 12 ft. or so from the ground, you may feel safe working with just roof brackets and planks in place. This is OK. But for the ultimate in roof safety, especially on steeper roofs or big jobs, invest in a safety harness and rope.

The roof anchor must be fastened securely to solid wood like a rafter, truss or ridge beam, not just through the roof boards or plywood. Models vary slightly, so read the manufacturer’s instructions and follow them carefully. Here are a few of the key points:

• Inspect the harness and lanyard for loose stitching and worn webbing. Never reuse a harness or lanyard that has been subjected to a fall. Send them back to the manufacturer for inspection. Examine the rope for fraying.

• Adjust the harness buckles for a snug fit.

• Locate the roof anchor directly above where you’ll be working on the roof. Don’t work more than 4 ft. to the side of the roof anchor. Relocate the anchor or add more anchors if necessary.

• Mount the roof anchor to the peak no closer than 6 ft. from the edge of the roof.

• Reposition the rope-grab as you work to minimize the amount of slack in the rope between you and the roof anchor.

From The Family Handyman - March 2001