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To further reinforce the doorjamb, install a new plate in place of the old lip strike plate that serves the doorknob lockset. Attach it with 3-in. screws. Make sure the screwheads seat flush with the face of the strike plate. We used No. 8 x 3-in. screws. No. 10 x 3-in. screws (used for the deadbolt plate) were too large. Remember to angle the screws back slightly to be sure to catch the framing (Figure A). Again, you may have to chisel a slightly larger mortise and predrill to drive the screws.
Buying a Deadbolt
Most people choose a deadbolt for its color or finish, but when entry security is paramount, the critical deadbolt feature is its grade. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) subjects all locks and components to attacks by hammers, saws, wrenches and other tools. Then it grades the lock: Grade 1 (best and toughest), Grade 2 or Grade 3.
Most locks you find in home centers and hardware stores are Grade 2 or 3. Some Grade 2 locks may list Grade 1 components on the package, but that doesn’t give the lock a Grade 1 rating. However, Grade 2 is still a good-quality lock for residential use. We only found one fully compliant Grade 1 deadbolt in local home centers and hardware stores (see Buyer’s Guide). Professional locksmiths also are a good resource to find Grade 1 deadbolts, but you’ll pay $80 to $200 for their top-quality stock.
And before you shop for a deadbolt, measure the hole size where the current cylinder fits, as well as the “backset” distance from the center of the cylinder hole to the edge of the door. Most new deadbolts require a 2-1/8 in. cylinder hole, but some of them have inserts to fit the smaller 1-1/2 in. hole, so you don’t have to drill to enlarge the hole. The backset distance is usually either 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 in., so make sure the new deadbolt has the identical backset. Most new locks are adjustable to fit either backset dimension. Just read the box carefully (you may have to open it and read the directions to find the information).
Also decide whether to buy a single cylinder (keyed on exterior side of lock only) or a double cylinder deadbolt (keyed on both sides). Check local building codes too, as they may prohibit double cylinder locks for fire safety reasons (it’s more difficult to escape because you must have the key).
3. Replace the Deadbolt Strike Plate
Install a heavy-duty strike plate to strengthen the doorjamb. We didn’t use the strike plate that came with the deadbolt. We opted for a more secure strike box plate (made by Mag Security; $5.50 at The Home Depot; see Buyer’s Guide) that features four screws instead of two. (Two screws are installed inside the strike box to add strengt.) Mark the center of the old deadbolt strike plate, then temporarily install the new faceplate and deeply score around it to mark its position.
Next, remove the plate, then chisel and drill out space for both the new plate and the strike box. If the strike box is larger than the existing hole, use a 1-in. spade bit to bore two holes, spaced apart the width and the depth of the box.
Now remove the wood with a wood chisel to fit both the strike box plate and the faceplate. Be sure to use the wood chisel with the bevel side against the wood to keep from gouging too deep.
Finally, mount the plate and box and attach them with four 3-in. screws. Predrill pilot holes into the wall studs to make the screws easier to drive. Set the screws snug to the plate; overdriving might bow the jamb.
Now, kick back and rest a little easier, knowing you’ve made your home more secure.
Odds of Home Burglary*
Your house is at greater risk if:
It sits on a corner lot (more visible to a browsing burglar and a natural place to stop and ask for directions)
It is located close to a major highway exit (less than 1 mile)
It is located on a through street, which gives a burglar a quicker escape (dead-end streets and cul-de-sacs are safer)
It borders a wooded area or playground (provides concealed access for burglars)
It is in a wealthier neighborhood ($150,000 value and up)
It features no signs of young children living there (burglars avoid as someone may be home)
It was recently purchased (burglars know you haven’t yet developed close familiarity with neighbors)
Burglar alarm installed
Deadbolt locks on all doors
House is occupied
Newspaper and mail picked up
Lights and noise (TV, radio) inside house (set on timer when gone)
Car in the driveway
Motion-activated exterior lights
Dog in the house
(*Taken from research study, “Knowing Your Odds: Home Burglary and the Odds Ratio,” by S. Hakim, G. Rengert and Y. Shachamurove, City College of New York and University of Pennsylvania, Sept. 2000)
Buyer’s GuideKWIKSET: (800) 327-5625. www.kwikset.com. (We used a Grade 1 UltraMax Security deadbolt, Model 980, $30.)
MAG SECURITY: (800) 624-9942. www.magsecurity.com
SCHLAGE: (800) 847-1864. www.schlagelock.com
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