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- Overview and Preparation
- Step-by-Step Pictures and Instructions for How to Reinforce Your Entry Door and Lock
- See More Doors Projects
I never realized how easy it is to kick in a solid door that has old hardware until I tried it on our demonstration door. With two kicks in only five seconds, I destroyed the doorjamb and was in the house.
You need to upgrade the deadbolt and lockset plates of your exterior doors if you haven’t already done so. FBI burglary statistics show that 65 percent of break-ins occur by forcing in the front, back or garage service door (not to mention the 12 percent of entries where burglars find your “hidden” key or simply walk in through an unlocked door).
In this story, we’ll show you how to strengthen your exterior doors in three ways. We’ll replace an old deadbolt with a quality Grade 1 deadbolt. Then, we’ll replace the deadbolt strike plate with a four-screw strike box and faceplate— attached with 3-in. wood screws that reach the wall frame. Finally, we’ll replace the lip strike plate and its wimpy 3/4-in. screws with 3-in. wood screws. We’ll also show you a handy method to turn a small deadbolt hole into a larger hole.
The techniques we show in this article will work on any type of exterior door. But keep in mind that these techniques may not be as effective if you have glass sidelight windows or large glass panels in your doors.
For this project, you need only basic carpentry tools, as well as a 2-1/8 in. hole saw bit and a 1-in. spade bit (check the deadbolt packaging for the exact bit size required). Home centers usually carry deadbolt installation kits with the right size bits.
Check All Exterior Doors
A secure entry starts with a solid door and a Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt with a solid 1-in. long throw bolt (see “Buying a Deadbolt,”). Any exterior door that only has a lock in the door-knob isn’t secure. A sturdy screwdriver or small pry bar can quickly bow the doorjamb enough to release the latch.
Check your existing deadbolt. First, make sure the screws are tight. Open the door and extend the throw bolt. If it extends less than 1 in., or if it’s wobbly, a new deadbolt will be more secure.
Next, check the doorjamb and both strike plates. Remove the screws from the deadbolt and lockset strike plates on the door frame. If the screws aren’t 3 in. long, replace them, and also upgrade both plates. (Note: Use shorter screws if sidelight windows are less than 3 in. from the doorjamb.) These longer screws will reinforce the doorjamb, which is a vulnerable spot, as you can see by the damaged doorjamb that was kicked in.
1. Replace the Deadbolt
Begin by removing the old deadbolt. Almost all types are held by two screws on the interior side of the door and two screws on the faceplate. Measure the cylinder hole size and the “backset” distance, that is, the distance from the center of the hole to the door edge. You’ll need these dimensions when you purchase a new deadbolt.
The scrap board engages the center guide bit of the hole saw and keeps the new hole centered. Otherwise, you can’t get a clean and accurate cut.
To find the starting point for the hole saw bit, clamp the scrap board to the door and mark both the vertical and the horizontal center of the new cylinder hole. Make sure to hold the drill level and straight so the hole saw bit doesn’t bind and jerk your wrist and arm. If you don’t have a full-depth hole saw bit, chip the wood away from a partially drilled hole, then continue drilling. Go slow so you don’t splinter the opposite side when the bit goes through the door.
Now clean up the hole and test-fit the deadbolt. If the throw-bolt hole (which runs from the cylinder hole to the door edge) is too small, clean it out with a file. Make sure the attached throw-bolt strike plate fits flush, then attach the bolt followed by the deadbolt cylinder. Hand-drive the screws; a power drill may strip the threads.
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