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- Overview and Preparation
- Step-by-Step Pictures and Instructions for How to Replace Interior Doors
- See More Door Projects
We’ve all lived with them—the doors that won’t shut, or when they do, won’t latch. Whether the cause is a change in humidity or hardware failure, the problems are relatively easy to fix once you diagnose them.
Even if your door has been binding for years, we’ll show you how to identify the problem and repair it quickly and inexpensively.
Problem: Loose Hinge Screws: Door Binds Along Outside Top Edge
When a door binds, it almost always sticks along the latch side near the top. You can usually see the wear there. Check for loose screws in the top hinge plate. Tightening the screws may work for the short term, but they often come loose again because the original hole is stripped. Rather than trying to repair the hole in the wood, replace one of the loose screws with a longer one. The intent is to drive the new screw beyond the existing jamb and into the trimmer stud behind. In order to hit the stud, choose the screw hole closest to the stop; otherwise, the new screw will likely miss the stud altogether. Make sure the new screw is long enough to get through the jamb, the shim space and into the stud. A No. 8, 3-in. will usually do just fine.
Problem: Door Binds Along Bottom Edge
If the door rubs on the latch-side bottom edge, look for fastener failure again. In most cases, the lower jamb has shifted or pulled loose from its nails, resulting in an out-of-plumb opening. To reset the jamb, pry away the bottom section of casing and renail the jamb. If there are no shims, install them if necessary to allow for a 1/8-in. gap between the closed door and the jamb. Then nail with 10d casing nails and tack the casing back into place.
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