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About This Project
Installing a new kitchen faucet isn’t tough at all. Actually, the directions that come with your new faucet are probably all you’ll need to do that part of the job. Barring unforeseen problems, you could be washing up under the new faucet in an hour or so.
But what the directions don’t mention are the bugaboos that can pop up while you’re trying to get the old one out. You may be faced with bush-whacking your way through a dark, dank jungle of drainpipes, water lines, a garbage disposer and maybe more, just to access the faucet. Then, you’ll be called on to perform pretzel-like contortions inside the sink cabinet to pull an old faucet with connections that may be so badly corroded you’ll swear they’re welded together.
TIP: Before disconnecting the drain lines, take a Polaroid snapshot or make a sketch of the layout to help you put it all back together.
We’ll show you the unexpected problems that crop up—and how to solve them
Here’s what you need to know to get through the tough parts.
TIP: Prop up a scrap of plywood on some 1-qt. paint cans in front of the cabinet. You’ll be much more comfortable lying under the sink. Otherwise, the edge of the cabinet would be digging into your back.
The Right Stuff
Chances are, you’ll need to make more than one trip to the hardware store for parts, but to give yourself a fighting shot at completing the job with one-stop shopping, consult this list.
Shutoff valves: Before you shop for your new faucet (see “Selecting a Faucet,” below), take a look under the sink and make sure that there are shutoff valves feeding the faucet. If you don’t have shutoff valves, add them. If you have them, confirm that they’re in working order by turning on the hot and cold water at the faucet and shutting off the valves. If the faucet still drips, install new ones. Most likely you have 1/2-in. copper supply pipes. If so, add easy-to-install solderless “compression fitting” valves to your shopping list. But if not, buy whichever valve type is compatible with your pipes.
Supply tubes: Next, measure the existing supply tubes and buy new stainless steel–sleeved supply tubes. They’re designed to give rupture-free service for years and can be routed around obstacles without kinking.
Basin wrench: Also buy a basin wrench ($15). This weird little wrench is made specifically for removing and installing those hard-to-reach fasteners that clamp older faucet assemblies to the sink. (Newer faucets have plastic wing nuts that can usually be loosened and tightened by hand.) A basin wrench’s spring-loaded jaws pivot so you can either loosen or tighten nuts in tight spaces. If you need to remove drain lines to access the faucet, get a pipe wrench or a slip-joint pliers. For cutting copper tubes, buy a conventional tubing cutter. But if your copper supply lines are within a few inches of the back of the cabinet, buy a special mini tube cutter. You’ll also need a set of open-end wrenches for disconnecting and hooking up the water lines.
TIP: Plan on replacing your faucet during store hours. Chances are better than 50/50 you’ll need at least one more part.
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