How to Replace Insulating Glass (page 2 of 2)

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How to Replace Insulating Glass: Other Methods

Adhesive Tape Method
FIG. B SETTING TAPE
FIG. B SETTING TAPE
Some windows are sealed with double-face adhesive “setting” tape. Usually these windows have removable vinyl, aluminum or wood stops on one side, with the adhesive tape placed between the glass and the frame on the other. The tape is usually 1/16 in. or 1/8 in. thick, so you’ll have enough room to slip a thin-blade putty knife or utility knife between the glass and frame to slice through the tape.

Some additional tips:

  • Pry out the stops, being careful not to bend or break one. Replacements can be hard to find.

  • Some stops can’t be removed without ruining them. Ask the repair specialist if your windows are this type, and buy new stops.

  • Buy double-face glass sealing tape of the correct thickness and width from the repair specialist.

  • If the stops are caulked in place, slice through the caulk with a utility knife.

  • If the window has “setting blocks” (to keep the glass centered in the frame, as in, reposition them exactly as you found them around the old glass. But check the fit of the glass first. You may have to alter the thickness of the blocks.

Caulk Method
FIG. C CAULK
FIG. C CAULK
Insulating glass that’s caulked in place is virtually glued to the frame. In addition, it’s held by a stop, which might also be caulked and very difficult to cut through with a knife. You might have to smash out the window, then pry out the glass piece by piece.

TIP< br> For easy cleanup, place glass on top of a sturdy tarp to catch all the shards.

Many wood frames have the glass caulked in place, and it’s difficult to replace the glass without damaging the frame. So you might want to consider having a window repair specialist handle this glazing method. If you do it yourself, allow at least a couple of hours to remove the old glass and clean the frame.

Some additional tips:

  • Wood stops are usually stapled and painted in place. There’s a pretty good chance you’ll crack them when prying them off. Pros break them too. Work carefully, save the pieces and glue them together later. Finding matching replacement stops can be tough.

  • The best thin pry bar we could find for this work is the Model 45600 by Hyde Tools (about $9; call 800-872-4933).

  • The wood frames themselves sometimes crack when you pry out the glass. A heat gun, set on low, will soften the adhesive to get the glass out easier, and you’re less likely to damage the wood.

  • Careful; don’t nick the glass when you nail the stops back in.

Warranties< br> Most insulating glass now carries a 20-year warranty against defects and seal failure. Older windows may carry a 5- or 10-year warranty. Seal failure is the most common problem. You know the seal has failed when moisture begins to appear between the two panels of glass.

TIP
Check your warranty at the first sign of fogging.

The fogging might not be all that irritating at first, but in a few years it will be, and by then your warranty may have expired.

If you don’t know the window manufacturer, a repair specialist can help you identify the unit. Major manufacturers usually put tiny identifying marks on the window hardware, the glass spacer or the glass itself. Sometimes these marks include the date the unit was made.

Keep In Mind:
Warranties cover the new insulating glass unit but not the cost of installation.

From The Family Handyman - October 2000
Originally in How to Replace Insulating Glass
 
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