About This Project
Masking off baseboard and other trim is a great way to get a professional-looking paint job. You’ll get a crisp, clean paint line where the walls meet the trim. And the job will go quicker because you’ll avoid the time-consuming “cutting in” with the paintbrush and cleaning up paint spatters from your woodwork. Of course, masking itself requires a little patience and skill.Wavy tape will result in a wavy paint line. Poor adhesion will allow “paint creep.” And ragged tape in corners will leave blotches. In this article, we’ll show you techniques that will solve these problems and make your masking job go quickly and smoothly.
Pull from the roll to get the tape perfectly straight
One of the trickiest parts of masking is getting the tape on straight and tight against the wall. There are many techniques, but here’s one that works great. Strip 8 to 10 in. of tape from the roll and use the roll itself, held tightly against the wall, to pull the tape straight. It’s a little awkward at first, and may seem slow, but the results are nearly perfect every time. Use this technique wherever you’re masking at a right angle to another surface.
Tips for removing masking tape

If you’re a procrastinator or slow painter, choose tape that’s designed to be left on for several days. Scotch No. 2090 is one brand that uses a slowhardening adhesive so it can be safely left on for about 14 days.
To avoid peeling paint, pull the tape off immediately or wait at least overnight for the paint to dry completely. Beware of paint that feels dry to the touch but hasn’t hardened and fully bonded to the wall. It may come off along with the masking tape.
Remove tape at about a 45-degree angle to the painted surface as shown to minimize the tendency for paint to peel. And if despite waiting overnight and using a good technique, you notice the paint still peels with the tape, use the edge of your putty knife or a utility knife to cut the seal between the wall and tape before you remove the tape.
| Editor’s note | ||
I’m all for saving money, and there are times when a cheaper product will do the job. But cheap masking tape is no bargain. If you’re going to all the trouble of masking, you want tape that will seal tightly to the surface and come off easily. But there’s no single type of tape that will work in every circumstance. For general masking, I like the Scotch-Blue No. 2090. There are two versions: one for standard masking, and one with less adhesion for masking over delicate surfaces. You can leave these on for up to 14 days. You can also use the blue tape on window glass. The adhesive will withstand ultraviolet light without baking onto the glass. Scotch No. 2060 is extra sticky and works well for textured surfaces like stucco and brick. If you’re only going to buy one width, get 1-1/2-in.-wide tape. It’s about perfect for most tasks.—Jeff | ||




There are two versions: one for standard masking, and one with less adhesion for masking over delicate surfaces. You can leave these on for up to 14 days. You can also use the blue tape on window glass. The adhesive will withstand ultraviolet light without baking onto the glass. Scotch No. 2060 is extra sticky and works well for textured surfaces like stucco and brick. If you’re only going to buy one width, get 1-1/2-in.-wide tape. It’s about perfect for most tasks.
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