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Install a Post-Formed Laminate Countertop: The Sink & Faucet
Installing a new sink and faucet is one of the easiest things you can do to make a big impact on the way your kitchen looks and functions. With the wide selection of sinks and faucets available from home centers and on-line plumbing suppliers, you can choose features that match your cooking style (such as a deep sink for extra-large pots) and colors that complement your countertop and appliances. And most are designed for easy installation, even for a novice.
We chose a stainless steel sink to coordinate with the new appliances and for its classic looks and durability. The 8-in. deep bowls along with the arching faucet spout make it easily accommodate large pans. Both the sink and faucet were in stock at a local home center. See the Buyer’s Guide for details.
The most critical step in the sink installation is cutting an accurate hole in the countertop. Some basic carpentry and plumbing experience would be helpful, but by following our instructions, you’ll be able to successfully complete the job in a day.
In addition to basic hand tools, you’ll need a drill and jigsaw to cut the hole, and wrenches and a large slip-joint pliers to connect the plumbing. Any fine-tooth saw will work to cut the plastic pipe.
If you have chrome drain parts, we recommend replacing them with new plastic drains. Plastic is much easier to work with, seals better and doesn’t corrode like metal. Buy the drain parts you need to fit your situation, including parts for a garbage disposer or dishwasher if you have them.
Use a Template or the Sink Itself to Mark the Counter for Cutting
Some sinks include a paper template that you cut out and use as a pattern. Others, like ours, instruct you to use the sink as a template, and then draw a second cutting line 1/2 in. inside the outline. The key is to locate the sink cutout just far enough back from the front of the countertop to fit inside the cabinet frame (usually about 2 in. back). This will then leave room behind the sink. In Photo 1, we show how to center the sink on the sink cabinet. We put down masking tape to make the pencil lines more visible on the dark laminate and to protect the top from scratches (Photo 2).
Mark the cutout line according to the instructions and then saw out the hole. Drill 1/2-in. starting holes in each corner to make turning the corner easier. A jigsaw works well for cutting the hole. Just be sure to use a top-quality wood cutting blade and cover the bottom of the saw bed with tape to avoid marring the counter. Screw a scrap of wood to the cutout (Photo 2) to keep it from falling through as you complete the cut. Use a handsaw to cut the back line if your jigsaw doesn’t fit.
Install the Basket Strainers and Faucet Before Setting the Sink
The less time you spend on your back under the sink, the better, so install as much of the hardware as possible before setting the sink. Photos 3–5 show how. Follow the instructions included with your faucet. If you use the countertop as a workbench, protect the surface with a sheet of cardboard or a dropcloth.
The next step is to caulk around the opening and set the sink (Photo 6). Stainless steel sinks like ours are held in place by clips. These are included with the sink along with instructions on how they work. Tighten the clips from underneath (Photo 7). Cast iron sinks usually rest on the counter and are held in place by the caulk. Cast iron is heavy. You’ll need a helper to set a cast iron sink in the hole. Clean up the caulk with a wet rag after you tighten the sink clips.
Complete the job by connecting the supply lines and hooking up the drains (Photos 8 and 9). Turn on the water and check for leaks. Most leaks are easy to fix by slightly tightening the supply line connections or slip-joint nut on the drain lines.
Parts and Supplies
Plumber’s putty ($1.50)
Tub-and-tile caulk ($3)
Two basket strainer assemblies (only one if you’re installing a disposer; $10 each)
You’ll need the following 1-1/2 in. plastic drain parts:
One P-trap assembly ($5)
One “end” or “center” outlet waste kit ($5)
Two sink tailpieces ($2 each)—only one if you’re installing a disposer. If you have a dishwasher and no disposer, get a special “dishwasher” tailpiece that has a tube to connect the dishwasher drain hose.
One “disposer” waste arm ($3.50) if you have a disposer.
Two flexible water supply tubes for kitchen sinks ($4.50 each). Match the nuts on the ends to the threads on your faucet and shutoff valves. Also measure to determine the right lengths.
Buyer’s Guide
We used a Kohler sink (model No. K3369-4-NA; $245) and Delta faucet (model No. 174-SSWF; $269). The following is a partial list of companies that manufacture sinks and faucets.
AMERICAN STANDARD: (800) 524-9797. www.americanstandard-us.com
DELTA FAUCET CO.: (800) 345-3358. www.deltafaucet.com
ELJER PLUMBINGWARE INC.: (800) 423-5537. www.eljer.com
ELKAY: (630) 572-3192. www.elkayusa.com
GERBER PLUMBING FIXTURES CORP.: (847) 675-6570. www.gerberonline.com
KOHLER CO.: (800) 456-4537. www.kohler.com
MOEN: (800) 289-6636. www.moen.com
PEERLESS: (800) 438-6673. www.peerlessfaucet.com
The countertop shown is made by Pionite (www.pionite.com). The color is MV430 Suede, Jade Pavia.
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