A saber saw, fitted with a small blade that moves rapidly up and down under a baseplate,
can cut straight lines, but it excels at cutting curves. It can easily cut intricate
designs or cut long, smooth curves. With the proper blade, the tool can cut wood, sheet
metal, plastic pipe, plastic laminates, ceramic materials, acrylic plastic sheets, and
even cardboard and leather.
Using a Saber Saw
Install a blade appropriate for the material being cut. (Blades are purchased separately
to the saw; their purpose is clearly identified on the packaging.) Adjust the speed - the
denser the material you intend to cut, the slower the speed you should use. If your saw
has it, also adjust the orbital (slight backward and forward) action. More orbital action
will result in faster but coarser cutting.
Do not force the tool - let the blade do the work. If you are cutting with the grain, ensure
a straight cut by either using the edge guide accessory, or the edge of a board as a
guide.
To cut tight curves, first saw straight lines in the waste material, and then cut along
the curved line. The pieces of waste material will drop off as you cut, giving the saw
blade extra clearance.
To start an inside cut, tilt the saw forward and rest the front of the base on the work.
Set the saw at a moderate speed and then slowly pivot the blade into the stock.
Alternatively, drill a starting hole for the blade.
When cutting dense materials at slow speed, periodically remove the saw from the work and
run it up to full speed for a moment. This allows the fan to cool the motor, extending its
life.
Use a slow speed for cutting metal, and lubricate the blade with oil. When cutting thin
metal, use a fine-toothed blade to ensure that at least two teeth are in contact with the
stock at all times. Before cutting plywood having a hardwood veneer, score the cutting
line with a knife to prevent splintering.
Purchasing
Saber saws come with a barrel handle or a D-handle. If you have only occasional use for a
saber saw, an inexpensive model might be all you need. Better models vibrate less and come
with helpful features such as an adjustable baseplate for cutting bevels, adjustable
orbital action, an anti-chip device, and a blower to clear dust from the kerf (the slot
produced by the saw blade). Accessories for saber saws include a circle-cutting guide,
and specialized baseplates for cutting corrugated materials.
Rental
Saber saws are available at many rental outlets. You will probably need to buy new blades
to use with the machine. Check to make sure that any accessories you need are included.
Other Names
Jigsaw; bayonet saw
Substitutes
An alternative to the saber saw is the non-powered coping saw.
Another is the fretsaw (also non-powered). This is a deep-throated coping saw for making
cuts farther from the edge of stock than is possible with a normal coping saw. Fitted with
a fine-toothed blade (28 to 32 teeth per inch (tpi), the saw can cut intricate curves.
The standard fretsaw accepts a 5- or 6-inch blade and has a 10- to 12-inch-deep frame.
Caution
- Always wear safety glasses or goggles when operating a saber saw.
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Brought to you by Book of Skills and Tools and New Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual
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