Every year it’s the same question: What’s the best temperature for your heater in winter? Juggling warmth, costs and energy efficiency is a timeless winter pastime, but this year it may be more complicated. That’s because this winter brings La Niña, the climate pattern that—like its bratty sibling El Niño—drives weather trends across North America.

La Niña tends to mean colder and wetter weather in the northern half of the country, while southern states lean drier. But La Niña can be unpredictable, and no matter how it shakes out, you’re probably going to be turning on your heater. With residential electricity rates up 6.1% from last year, it’s tempting to wait—but you can only layer on the sweaters for so long. Eventually, you need some heat (well, maybe not you, Miami), and using the right thermostat setting for winter can save you a ton of money.

And temperature settings are just the beginning. Ahead, Alex Hepke, a heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) expert with the Frontdoor home services app, talks heaters, recommended thermostat settings for winter and the one thing you should definitely not do with your thermostat when it gets cold. Grab a blanket, settle in and read on.

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What is the thermostat mistake homeowners often make?

No, it’s not cranking it up too high or forgetting to turn it down when you go to bed. It’s manually activating the emergency or auxiliary heat. Wait, auxiliary heat? That sounds great! In reality, it’s a terrible idea, Hepke says. Why? Let’s talk emergency heat and heat pumps to find out.

If you have a heat pump as your primary heating source, it has a supplemental heat source that kicks on when the system senses it’s necessary. “The emergency feature will activate when it’s too cold for the heat pump to operate on its own,” Hepke says. It might come on when the outside temperature gets too low for the pump to sufficiently heat your home or when it goes into defrost mode.

Once the emergency heat mode is activated, electric heat strips inside the air handler turn on, “resulting in a warmer air supply immediately,” Hepke says. These two systems—your primary heat pump and your supplemental auxiliary heat—are designed to work together to keep your home toasty. But that won’t happen if you manually turn on this thermostat setting.

What is the issue with activating this setting?

Electricity Power Meter In Winter
Ali Majdfar/Getty Images

There are a few problems with manually turning on emergency heat, and they’re all going to cost you money in the end.

In the winter, heat pumps take air from outside, extract heat from it and vent that warmer air into your home. (During summer, the process reverses, taking hot air from your home and pumping it outside.) But, when it gets really cold—below 35 degrees or so—heat pumps need help, and that’s where the auxiliary heat comes in.

Below, we’ll dive into three reasons you shouldn’t be messing with this setting.

Higher energy costs

The first big problem with turning on auxiliary heat is your soon-to-be skyrocketing electric bill. “Running just the auxiliary heat setting is very expensive and not cost effective,” Hepke says.

Heat pumps are popular because they use at least 50% less energy than other types of electric heat, saving about $500 per year on average in energy costs. When you turn on the emergency heat, you actually turn off the primary heat pump.

What’s the big deal? Well, that emergency heat is coming from something called electric heat strips, and those are just plain old heating elements like you’d find in a toaster. Can you imagine trying to heat your house with a toaster? Yeah, that’s going to cost you.

“Electric heat strips use a lot of electricity to get hot, so your electric bill will be significantly higher,” Hepke says.

System inefficiency

Another reason to avoid manually turning on the emergency heat is that your heat pump just isn’t designed for it.

“Your system is programmed to only use the auxiliary heat when it’s too cold or when it’s in defrost mode,” Hepke says. These are temporary situations, not long-term, and the heat pump knows if and when it needs the boost. When you turn on the auxiliary setting, you’re overriding the brains of the system and defeating the purpose of having a heat pump.

Hepke says it’s better to allow your HVAC system to run as designed, “with all modes of heating working in unison as intended.” When asked whether it’s ever appropriate to turn on the emergency heat, Hepke is blunt: “No, only if your heat pump has failed.”

Wear and tear

Hepke says using the auxiliary heat typically doesn’t harm your heat pump. Electric heat strips provide a hotter supply of air than the heat pump alone, but the system is ready for it. Using supplemental heat as intended “has no negative effect on the HVAC system itself,” Hepke says.

It’s still not a good idea to turn it on manually. Heat pump manufacturers are clear: It’s not necessary and can even be detrimental. You’re putting the burden of heating your entire home on something that’s meant to be used temporarily. Even if you’re not doing it for months or years at a time, it could contribute to wear and tear on your system.

How much money are you wasting by doing this?

It depends on where you live, the cost of your electricity and other factors, but it’s a lot. Purely resistive heat, like the heat strips in a heat pump, are 100% efficient. That means every bit of energy introduced to them turns into heat. Heat pumps, on the other hand, are 300% efficient, putting out three times more heat than it takes to run them.

So no matter where you live and what your energy prices are, it costs three times as much money to run your heat pump in auxiliary mode.

Do all thermostats have this setting?

No. Hepke says only thermostats that control a heat pump will have this setting, which makes sense, since other heating systems, from gas furnaces to hot-water radiators, do not have (nor typically require) a supplemental heat function.

Do you have to turn off this setting if you activate it?

According to Hepke, that’s an affirmative: “If you turned it on,” he says, “you need to turn it back off.”

Don’t worry—that won’t physically tax the system. But it will save you money by reverting the system to its regular (and cheaper) setting. See, during regular operation, the heat pump cycles back and forth between settings as needed, but when you manually put the system into emergency heat mode, it stays there until you change the setting.

What the best temperature for your heater in winter?

Experts say that the ideal indoor temperature—and best thermostat setting for winter—is 68 degrees. Of course, you can adjust to your preferences, but that’s the standard recommended thermostat setting for winter to balance efficiency and comfort. I crank mine up, because 68 isn’t going to cut it for this old gal—I swear my house in normally blazing-hot Texas is colder than my old house in Minnesota, and that thing was 120 years old.

What should you do if your house is cold?

If you’re shivering and relying on space heaters this winter, here’s what to do:

  • Seal cracks and drafts. My front door leaked air like a sieve. After hanging a blanket over the gap for a few weeks, I sealed the door with weather stripping, and it got much better.
  • Close unneeded vents. My living room has high ceilings, and it’s 10 times warmer upstairs than down. Closing vents upstairs helps.
  • Switch your ceiling fans. Fans are directional, and they should push heat downward in winter. As the weather cools in the fall, switch the direction of your fans to spin clockwise.
  • Add insulation. When you bought your house, did the inspector tell you to add insulation in the attic? Did you? It’s a good idea.
  • Call a technician. The best temperature for heaters in winter is what makes you comfortable while balancing energy efficiency. If your heater’s not cutting it, ask an expert what’s wrong.

About the expert

  • Alex Hepke is a virtual HVAC expert at Frontdoor, a home-services app that connects homeowners with on-staff, trained experts to solve common home-maintenance issues. He has 13 years of experience in heating, ventilation and air conditioning.

Why trust us

At Reader’s Digest, we’re committed to producing high-quality content by writers with expertise and experience in their field in consultation with relevant, qualified experts. We rely on reputable primary sources, including government and professional organizations and academic institutions as well as our writers’ personal experiences where appropriate. For this piece, Ally Childress tapped her experience as a longtime journalist and licensed electrician to ensure that all information is accurate and offers the best possible advice to readers. Read more about our team, our contributors and our editorial policies.

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