The Best Anti-Aging Secrets Dermatologists Won’t Tell You for Free
In case you don’t get enough face time with your derm, we chatted with the nation’s top skin experts to score the insider advice they don’t dole out to just anyone.
Your best weapon to fight aging skin is sunscreen
Sure, you know you need to wear sunscreen to prevent skin cancer, but sunscreen is also the number one way to keep your skin looking younger and healthier. “The sun emits ultraviolet radiation that damage skin, both the overlying epidermis and the underlying dermis,” explains Jerome Garden, director of the Physicians Laser and Dermatology Institute in Chicago. “In addition to increasing your risk of skin cancer, the sun causes brown spots, red spots, and wrinkles.” Find out the sunscreens that top dermatologists love so much they use on themselves.
Expensive products are not always more effective
While it’s tempting to splurge on a skin-care item that promises to yield miracle-worthy results, pricey doesn’t always translate to premium. In fact, there are some great drugstore products that can produce great results, according to Dendy Engelman, MD, a dermatologist at Manhattan Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery. “A higher price tag can mean better quality ingredients or a higher concentration of an ingredient, but the ingredients list is always more important than the brand selling the product,” she says. Learn about the nine products dermatologists with you’d stop wasting your money on.
Don’t buy generic skin care
While you don’t need to spend a fortune to get a high-quality skin-care product, there is a difference between a brand-name drugstore product and a generic one, according to Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “Many generic products are packaged to look similar to the original, and may even have the same ingredients list, however, the difference is the quality of the ingredients and how they are actually formulated,” he says. Read about the drugstore beauty products dermatologists swear by.
You really don’t need a fancy cleanser
No matter what an expensive cleanser may cost, it’s not going to work any more magic than most lower-cost competitors, according to dermatologists. “The goal of a cleanser is to remove dirt, oil, makeup, and pollution from the skin without disrupting the outer skin layer—and the ingredients used to create a product that can do this are not expensive,” says Dr. Zeichner. “In fact, some of the best quality cleansers are actually among the least expensive products on the market—for example, the Dove Beauty Bar is a gold standard product using ultra gentle cleansing ingredients that actually helps hydrate the skin.” Here are six natural face cleansers you can make yourself.
You really do need a serum
Serums, which are meant to be layered underneath your daily and nightly moisturizer, often are the first skincare products to be skipped. But they play an important role in your daily routine. “Serums contain a high concentration of active ingredients and are lightweight, so they penetrate deeper into your skin to provide maximum benefits,” says Whitney Bowe, MD, author of The Beauty of Dirty Skin. She recommends looking for serums that contain ceramides and amino acids, which help to bolster the skin’s natural barrier, and antioxidants, which protect skin from sun damage and free radicals. These are the best serums for summer.
No face cream is going to completely rid you of fine lines
“We develop fine lines because of repeated folding of the skin from underlying muscles,” explains Dr. Zeichner. “Young, healthy skin has a strong foundation that resists folding and bounces back to its original shape, but, with age, that skin foundation gets weaker.” While topical creams will certainly help keep the skin barrier strong, the only way to truly reduce wrinkles is to relax the muscles underneath the skin, according to Dr. Zeichner. Find out other secrets to preventing wrinkles dermatologists wish you knew.
You should be wearing sunscreen year round
It’s true that even on the cloudiest or snowiest of days, sunscreen should be a part of your daily skin-care routine. “Incidental sun exposure for only 10 to 15 minutes a day adds up over time and can cause significant sun damage and accelerated photoaging,” says Dr. Engelman. In order to keep skin looking it’s youngest and healthiest, she recommends applying sunscreen every single day of the year, as brief sun exposures throughout the year can add up to significant damage (think driving with the sunroof open or walking around outdoor shopping centers during peak sun hours).
Retinol seriously works—use it!
According to Hadley King, MD, a dermatologist at Dr. Doris Day’s Upper East Side private practice Day Dermatology & Aesthetics in New York City, topical retinoids are the most effective topical anti-aging products (after sun protection). “There is great data that supports their effectiveness and safety,” she says. “While prescription retinoids are the most effective, there are now plenty of over-the-counter products that contain retinol and work well, especially on those with sensitive skin.” Learn about new game-changing anti-aging ingredients.
Laser treatments are definitely worth the investment
If you’re looking for fast results without the use of creams, Dr. Garden recommends laser treatments, which he specializes in. “We have lasers for brown spots, red spots, blood vessels and wrinkles,” he says. “Newer devices called fractionated lasers can produce impressive results with less down-time than before.” Although they’re on the pricier side, he says that these treatments can offer results far superior to creams. But the only caveat is that these machines are powerful and, in many states, can be operated by unqualified individuals who are not even physicians. He recommends making sure that your laser treatments are being performed by a board-certified dermatologist to avoid complications.
Collagen supplements actually work
Collagen is a protein that’s a building block for our hair, skin, and nails. “Supplemental collagen is fragmented pieces of amino acids and peptides that connect in the bloodstream with enzymes that trigger the production of collagen,” explains Dr. Engelman. “In a collagen-deficient system, this will support and increase collagen production.” It’s important, however, that you choose the right type of collagen, since 16 different strains exist. “For oral supplements, hydrolyzed collagen is easiest to digest, as it is broken down into the smallest forms of peptides and amino acids,” she says. “I like pills and powders because they are easy to incorporate no matter what your lifestyle.” Her favorite is Reserveage Collagen Replenish Powder. Here’s everything you need to know about collagen pills.
Don’t fall for “trendy” products
The latest and greatest products on the market might be eye-catching, but their popularity doesn’t mean that they’re effective. “Just because something is ‘hot’ right now in the beauty industry, does not mean that you should run out to purchase it,” says Dr. Bowe. “I always encourage my patients to look for scientific studies and statistics which prove that products deliver the results they promise.” Here are signs that your skin-care products are secretly damaging your face.
Diet does matter when it comes to healthy skin
No matter how much time, energy and money you spend on your skin care regimen, if you’re not supplementing it with a healthy diet, you’re wasting your efforts, according to experts. “Your skin is a reflection of your overall health and wellness and your diet absolutely impacts the appearance and health of your skin,” says Dr. Bowe. “For example, sugar in any form causes multiple changes in our body, from our cellular membranes and our arteries to our hormones, immune systems, gut, and even microbiome—the microbes in our intestines that affect our biology all the way out to our skin.”
Dark circles and puffy eyes could be fixed with an allergy pill and a nap
Before you run out to the store to buy every product promising to depuff your under-eye area, consider other causes that have nothing to do with your skin at all, such as seasonal allergies or lack of sleep. Joel Schlessinger, MD, board-certified dermatologist and RealSelf contributor recommends trying Claritin or Zyrtec, drinking more water, or heading to bed an hour earlier to clock more sleep. If your dark circles and puffiness aren’t improved by any of those suggestions, then he says a well-formulated and hydrating eye cream could help. Find out surprising causes of under eye circles.
Try to avoid sleeping on your side
Believe it or not, the way you sleep does have an effect on the smoothness of your skin. “Sleeping on your side presses your cheek into the pillow and causes the skin on your chest to be scrunched, creating new or reinforcing existing wrinkles,” warns Dr. Schlessinger. “Train yourself to sleep on your back as much as you can—it will keep skin as flat and smooth as possible.”
Don’t wait until it’s too late to start Botox
Because some fine lines and wrinkles are caused by repetitive movements, starting these treatments early, even in your late 20s and early 30s, can potentially help prevent them or slow their progression, according to Sejal Shah, New York City Cosmetic Dermatologist and founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology. “People are often afraid of injectables because they don’t want to look ‘frozen’ or overdone, but many neurotoxins (Botox, Dysport, and Xeomin) can look very natural when appropriately placed.” Just be sure to seek treatment from trained individuals, such as a board-certified dermatologist. Here’s everything you need to know about Botox.